I have to say, even though those big-bore shocks are likely to have no performance gains what-so-ever; they do look AMAZING!

:thumbsup:


I think Yokomo have created a really nice package in the new B-Max4 FT kit.


Julius.

As it seems some customers have been lucky and received wrongly packaged kits including BOTH spring types for the rear... Well, its quite unlikely that I will be that fortunate when my dealer will finally get the kits.
Whatever, I'm really looking forward to it, two sets of tires are already prepared (Goosebumps and Double Dee's on Rulux rims), the Womoog body is painted, Ryan's carbon fibre shock towers are waiting...

big bore shock seals
 

does anyone know if the shock seals are the same part number as the normal ones?

I dont know whether the shock pistons rods are larger in diameter or not?:cry:

Hi,

The shock seals in the big bores are identical to those in the standard size shocks. The bottom seal cartridge is exactly the same, so all the seals and spacers comply.

The rods are also the same as in the standard shocks. :thumbsup:

excellent, thanks for your quick reply.

do you have one?:drool:

I have a factory team B-Max yeah.

does the 'factory team' version come with self tapping screws, or hex screws?

I'll be honest... I don't actually know the answer to that. My car has been upgraded to Factory Team spec and I have been running the big bore shocks since the euros in august... I haven't had a factory team one in kit form yet.

I would suspect that the FT kit has hex screws, I personally use a titanium screw kit in mine.

Sorry I can't be more certain...

no worries, the manual which someone had a link to earlier looked like it doesnt come with hex's.

I personally have used hex's in all my cars but the bmax, and to be honest I dont mind the tapping screws. Seems with less threads, that there is less work to undo screws:thumbsup:

is the titanium screw kit your using, the yokomo one?
I thought I saw a picture of them but they didnt have a fine metric thread, but instead looked like self tapping screws with a hex head. Maybe I'm wrong, but thats what I thought I saw!

It is a Yokomo set of screws yeah. They have a regular metric thread on them...

yes metric thread sounds right!

I dont know where I got the hex screws with self tapping thread from lol

I just got news there is a package waiting at home for me...:thumbsup: Hopefully it,s the B-max and spares I ordered!:woot::woot:

Yardee, thanks so much for taking the time to answer questions on this forum. Feedback from a sponsored racer is priceless. Especially since I'll surely be the only person in my area who will have a B-max!:p

Can I ask you a question? I also got the Titanium screw kit (just for the hex heads). Do you put anti-seize on the screws that will be going into AL parts? Titanium is notorious for Galvanic corosion with AL and can litteraly weld itself together.

Oh, and may I ask what your target weight is for your buggy? I don't have weight limits where I race, but I definetly want to get it high enough so it performs well.

Any insight on this would be welcome! Thanks again for sharing!:thumbsup:

Hi Codman,

No problem about answering questions... I don't do it as often as maybe I should, I will try and come on a bit more often...

We use no substances on the screws at all, we have never had any problems with seizing at all... I have had the full aluminium range on my car for about 5 months now and there has been no issues. There arn't that many screws that actually go into aluminium...

Throughout the summer season here in the UK I had been running my car with LiPo batteries and no additional weight, so the car was coming in at around 1730g. However, the car was of course designed around NiMh battery weight being sat at the rear of the car, so over the last few weeks I have been doing more testing with weight fitted back in the car. I now have 2 led strips sat underneath each lipo saddle, adding up to around 160g to give the ballast of NiMh batteries whilst running LiPo. So my car now sits at about 1890g! I know it sounds a lot, but I really am of the belief that this is the best thing to do, particularly with the big bore shocks on as these are naturally a little stiffer than the standard shocks (the rear BB orange spring, although the softest, is still relatively stiff) my car feels very balanced.

For the record, as I don't think it has been posted on here yet, my starting point for my Big Bore shocks is like this:

Front- BB purple spring (hardest), Black piston, AE 30wt oil. Middle hole on tower, inner hole on wishbone. No limiters...

Rear- BB orange spring (softest), white piston, AE 25wt oil. Middle hole on tower, inner hole on wishbone. No limiters...

Tom

Thanks Tom! I was also think of putting some weights under the Lipos, especially since I'm running 4200mah, which are quite light.

Wow, you jump a full spring stiffness between the front and the back! Well, there is nothing like trying! :thumbsup: And after that, it's to each hi own preference!

Cheers!

Just got the Factory team B-max!!!:woot::woot: Ooh yeah....

Man I feel so silly getting excited over a toy car...:lol:

And of course the look of disaprooval on my girlfriends face...:confused:

Can't wait to start the build! I'll surely be around asking questions shortly...

So...would say AE shock o-rings work?

Even if they did Grape, I wouldn't use them. They are the biggest gripe racers have with AE shocks! problems leaking, and such... The Yokomo o-rings are nice and people rarely complain about them. Just stock up a bit they are cheap) and you will save yourself a lot of trouble...

Just my 0.02$

I was just trying to get an idea if the size of the o-rings are the same since I can get them at my LHS, I use them in my Losi shocks and never have a problem, o-rings aren't the problem with AE shocks, it's the overall design of them. But I was planning on ordering extra yokomo o-rings, just got to find a car now...