Anyone got a realy answer:blush::rolleyes:

A

Solved my own problem now.

A

how much are you on now?

:p

£4.53 an hour yea!!!!!

Because im under 18

Found out some of the things an anti roll bar can do....

Front anti roll bar reduces low speed steering a little

Rear anti roll bar gives more steering but makes the rear end roll less meaning less traction out of the corner.

So im going to try a rear one.

A

Hi Ash

Yes you have figured it out.

Basically if you fit a roll bar it stops the car generating body roll in a corner and keeps the chassis flatter in a turn, this then means the end of the car where the roll bar is fitted is stiffer in a corner which = less grip

So if you fit a rear roll bar the rear will be stiffer in the turn reducing rear grip = more steering

If you fit a front roll bar the front will be stiffer in the turn reducing steering and therefor the car will fell like you have more rear traction.

Thicker the bar the bigger the impact

If you use a thin bar you can get a happy medium like i have been running on the front of my CR. I do not loose much steering but the front is a little stiffer and not wanting to dive into a turn as much.

Hope that helps

Cheers si thats a big help i wanted to confirm it as what i put was what i figured out from reading a guide.

A

2wd

Track - Worksop 22nd

Front

Spring - Silver
Oil - 35
Piston - 55
Shock Tower Position - 3
Wishbone Position - Middle
VLA - Long
Camber Link - 2 B
Brass bulkhead (or 35g)

Notes---

30g's added on the front of the battery strap
Thin front roll car used (smallest)

Rear

Spring - red (paint removed)
Oil - 32.5
Piston - 56
Shock Tower Position - 4
Wishbone Position - Middle
VLA - SHORT
Camber Link - 2 D
Wheelbase - Medium

Notes---

Inside and outside cut off the front tyres to stop it hooking in on the astro

4wd was the same as before but i ran a diff in the end with the cliccker 2 turns from fully tight

2wd

Track - Coventry Astro 22nd

Front

Spring - Silver
Oil - 27.5
Piston - 667
Shock Tower Position - 3
Wishbone Position - Middle
VLA - Short
Camber Link - 2 B 1 gold washer
Brass bulkhead (or 35g)

Notes---

Rear

Spring - Pink
Oil - 25
Piston - 56
Shock Tower Position - 3
Wishbone Position - Middle
VLA - SHLong
Camber Link - 7 E
Wheelbase - Medium

Ran the CR at stotfold today in slippy conditions and ended up on the below once i had figured out how to drive an electric car again :p

Front

Spring - green
Oil - 30w
Piston - 55
Shock Tower Position - 2
Wishbone Position - inside
VLA - short
Camber Link - 2 B 3 washers under link
30 degree caster as std - tried 25 degree buut 30 better
30g on top of bulk head
Front Losi standard wing
Thin losi front roll bar - Stops so much body roll in corner

Rear

Spring - yellow
Oil - 30
Piston - 56
Shock Tower Position - 2
Wishbone Position - inside - gave much more drive for the slippy conditions
VLA - SHORT
2 degree anti squat
Camber Link - 2 B 3 washers under link on hub
Wheelbase - Short
losi steel drive shafts
Wide losi wing full gurney

Others
battery's - middle foam at the front and rear of Batts
Motor 6.5t Losi 25/78
Tyres - Sch Mini spike green
Speedo - Xcelorin
servo - short Ko 40g weight behind

car was good, would only run rear shocks on inside hole on the wishbone when car is lacking drive

2wd

Track - Kidderminster 12th April

Front

Spring - Green
Oil - 35
Piston - Red
Shock Tower Position - 3
Wishbone Position - Middle
VLA - Short
Camber Link - 2 B 1 gold washer
Brass bulkhead (or 35g)

Notes---

Rear

Spring - Yellow
Oil - 25
Piston - Orange
Shock Tower Position - 3
Wishbone Position - Outside
VLA - Long
Camber Link - 7 E
Wheelbase - Medium

Danny, could you get your setups up from Taly please mate? I know most of ours were about the same, just wondering on the main differences.

Cheers dude.

2wd

Front

Spring - Orange
Oil - 35
Piston - Orange
Shock Tower Position - Outside hole
Wishbone Position - Middle
VLA - Short
Camber Link - 2 B 2 gold washer
Brass bulkhead (or 35g), 10g's either side of the chassis

Notes---

Rear

Spring - White
Oil - 30
Piston - Red
Shock Tower Position - Outter hole
Wishbone Position - Middle
VLA - Long
Camber Link - 2 B i think
Wheelbase - Medium

4wd

Front

Spring - Green
Oil - 30
Piston - Black
Shock Tower Position - 2
Wishbone Position - Middle
Camber Link - 3 (long on tower) with 1mm cut off the outer hub

Notes--- Modified steering link with 15'g of weight up front too. Diff used

Rear

Spring - White
Oil - 30
Piston - Blue
Shock Tower Position - 3
Wishbone Position - Middle
VLA - SHORT
Camber Link - 5 E
Wheelbase - Medium

Notes---Lipo against the motor with speedo at the back

Think thats about it for both cars? have i missed anything?

Danny what about the weight of the 2wd?

No idea what the overall weight is. i have 30g's in the battery strap, 15 in the rear bulkhead, the brass bulkhead and then an addition 10 g's up front.

So add those all up and thats pretty much your answer.

I am going to try more weight for the next nat, as it seemed to work for the x factory guys!

Thats about it, cheers. Only my rear link was different.

Few questions

What setup changes are people making when running lipo i ran my cr for the first time tonight with lipo and it was gash tried it with lots of weight tried it with a bit of weight and tried it with no weigh and it was crap.

Anyone got a good lipo grass setup for somewhere like hinkcley.

A

My setup above works fine, try laying the shocks down two on the towers though . Unless it's got lots of slow corners.

Weight wise well that's anyones guess, were still playing with that

Cheers danny ill give it a go.

A

I think weight wise mine is pretty much spot on, although it's very heavy (1750g) it jumps very flat and still has a lot of turn in and high speed steering. I may lighten it at some point but it feels pretty good at the moment. I have my big battery strap, two 5's in the front quarters, two tens in the speedo/receiver area and some lead behind the cells. It seems to have taken away some of the excessive rear end i get and adding it to the front.