I seem to remember a Predator was around the £375 range back in '95/96, so it looks like they don't cost anymore at all now.

losi 22.2 £190 yokomo £300 cougar kr £190 k1 £280 is the engineering so cheap in america that they can beat the japanese by 30% is the k1 30%dearer to produce than a kr or are they priced at what they think they can get if i remember rightly the predator was carbon fibre tub and all sorts of fancy bits now carbon fibre and graphite have given way to flat plates with a few plasic bits bolted to them all the expensive materials seem to have gone replaced by plastic

Is not plastic.
Most of the "plastics" on current cars is filled with glass or carbon fibre. Around 30-40%

Its an industry standard.

And you are aware of things like tax, wages, materials, rent all being wildly different across the globe?

When I got my b5m it came with a load of other little bits for changing the setup that id most likely never use. These parts would have needed to be designed, have different moulds made and the material used, theses things cost money and add to the end cost. When you think that they are selling these at £175 in the USA without vat and import costs then then I think that you get a lot for your money. You do get more value for money with a 4wd but the running cost are higher.

dont know why you guys are wasting your breath, this guys a stubborn and deluded one,

end of the day, horizon dont built this 22, tlr do, so give them the funds, not horizon, or your lhs that actually buys and sells the car? The durangos are great and mb models do all the spares. Hobao h2 pro is like under £150 isn't it and apparently works like a 22 and you can fit 22 parts to it.

but hey, all you guys have said this and hes got an answer to everything....

TBH I think you get what you pay for, I started 2WD with a DEX210 which I was perfectly happy with for the money but the quality of parts wasn't the best IMO.

Cheap bearings with the rubber shields pushed in unevenly which restricted their rotation and slipper plates whose anodizing wore off after about 6 meetings and trashed the pads were two of the things which made me change to a Kyosho RB6 and enjoy the Japanese build quality.

On a side note I don't know what's wrong with people in this country, in other English speaking countries people take pride in learning to communicate effectively but all three of the posts by the OP have made my eyes hurt due to the lack of grammar and punctuation.

Call me a Victorian posho all you like but if you're capable of talking about percentages you're capable of learning your own language. keenbutboneidle

The new Yokomo is fairly hopped up straight out the box. If its anything like their other recent releases it will work out the box and not require any money spending on it.

on the bmax 4 ive literally only put alloy shock tops on and have only broke a shock shaft and A arm in 6 month racing twice a week!

Kyosho don't make a competitive 2wd?? The RB6 is the current World champion 2wd car!!!!

maybe you are missing some important news?

neil,i think what he means is that kyosho are more than 300 [yokomo] and that Tamiya don't make a competitive buggy.at the end of the day there is a good choice of buggies out there with budgets for everyone.the most expensive aren't always the best,and the cheaper ones aren't always the worst.

And on that note, HOTSHOTIII rests his case. :thumbsup:

I can sell you a cheap car :) one meeting old - like new :thumbsup:

nah, just paragraphs, punctuation and grammar.

I rest my case. Complete waste of anyone's breath

i think the point that was made about there being different cars out there of varying costs to suit different budgets its a good one. I feel some of the upgrades or parts for certain cars are a little crazy sometimes but it doesn't seem to put people off so what do I know lol.

Humm, maybe this thread is not going to plan.... best buy ones these rather than a new car

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...cJ4OvgWyuB7pDg

so you can dig yourself out.....

the sv2 is on its way a new buggy is being hunted the choices are losi but after a £1000 bill for aircraft repairs with a spektrum transmitter horizon products are out that leaves the rapid but fragile firebolt or the unpopular b5 in the sub £250 and in the middle the schumacher k1 the £300 plus bracket kyosho rb6 yokomo bmaxx and yz2 spares wise the associated and schumacher seem to be the best supported and my driving may make that an important factor
its getting close to the point that the car in the boot is more expensive than the boot it is in

what about rc10 worlds re-release?they can compete at top club level,are fun to drive[sometimes sideways]and you always get a crowd of admirers.i alove mine and will never sell it.around £200 ish and spares are plentiful.you can run any lipo in,no problems squeezing radio gear in.do it,you wont regret it.

tlr are owned by horizon hobbies like team associated is owned by thunder tiger if my punctuation makes this hard for you i apologise some models are distributed like ansmmann didn't manufacture they distributed team c, yokomo, and team associated are distributed by cml ripmax and perkins are distributers they market other peoples models with their own name habao are no longer listed on the cml website so spares could now be a problem i know this can be a issue as i drive a 4wd ansmann pro and spares have dissapeared completely as have team c alternatives which is why buying the right chassis is important i don't want to spend silly money on a here today gone tomorrow chassis ,

I have loads of spares for the x4 team edition should you ever need.why don't you spend a few quid having your car set up properly?all my cars are built and prepared by peter moss and they are fantastic.worth evey penny!you don't need a £300 car.spend £200 and the rest on build and you will never look back.

Very very true, despite the build quality issues I was more than happy with the actual performance of the DEX210.

It's surprising how many people don't follow basic rules like making sure all the suspension components fall under their own weight and regularly replacing shock seals. Also you can make the shock action better than on a brand new car by polishing the shock rods with Autosol, this makes the shock action silky smooth even on my 15 year old Schuey Fireblade.

I clean and re-lube my CVDs every week and people often comment that my cars are noticeably quieter than other people's (and they last longer, and CVD backlash makes even the most expensive car horrible to drive).

Also it's worth finding a good local fastener supplier (not Screwfix, hunt around the industrial estates for one that supplies local industry) and spending some money on fasteners, this makes the car more approachable to work on and you'll be more inclined to try different setups between rounds. I can't abide seeing a car less than 6 months old with a load of chewed up screw heads.