Front 86mm, rear 60mm

Just threw mine on from my ZX5-fs2 as I didn't have chance to get my shell to Adam to paint it ... still haven't which I need to sort out.

Fits "ok" I'd say, did resort to the body pins at the front though as it is otherwise not well enough supported.

Before I go on I have to say an engineer who lives in a land where ±1 micron is a large tolerance I have to say how brilliantly the ZX6 goes together, the RB6 is truly world class but this kit is out of this world brilliant in the fit and finish department. The other point I want to make is that before you go throwing masses of aftermarket bling and even the Kyosho upgrades at it build this kit out of the box .... it's all in there, everything you need! I'd arm yourself with a couple of pairs of Xgear springs and take your kit built car to the track, nothing else needed!

A couple of points from my build ....

1) M3x18mm cap head screws to bolt the tower mounts to gearbox cases.
I did this on the ZX5 as if you round a head off you pretty much had to destroy the tower mount to get to the recessed head to get it apart .... on the ZX6 some of those recesses are very deep so I strongly suggest you do the same (never rounded off a cap head with a 2.5mm hex)

2) Shim up the steering assembly - until you build it you'll have no idea of HOW picky I'm being here ....
Kyosho have done an absolutely amazing job of tolerancing all the plastic parts on the ZX6, the fit is out of this world brilliant.
That makes the tiny tiny tiny amount of play in the steering setup stand out like a sore thumb (it is a tiny amount) so I fitted an axle shim under each lower bearing and all play has gone and the steering is like silk.

3) Aluminium spacers under ball studs
With time and flexing the plastic spacers will yield a little leaving the ball studs a fraction loose ... that play = oval holes = stripped thread.
Kyosho's plastics are without a doubt the best in the business but it is always sound engineering to use metal spacers / washers as they just don't give .... standard for all cars I build.

4) Grub screws in all empty ball stud holes
Helps keep the plastic flex free and supports the plastic around the holes with ball studs in when you go cartwheeling down the straight ... again standard on every car I build.

Build was truly a pleasure, so much so I want to build another one right now :thumbsup:

Many thanks Roger. So the front bone is the same length as in my Redseal, but the rear bone is 70mm on the Redseal. Interesting.

Good infos here and on Tony's website. I should buy a ZX-6 before too long :D

Roger I'm going to bring you a pack of wet wipes to the next meeting so you can wipe all of the man love off your car:woot:

Thanks Brian, I seem to have used up my stock over the last week :woot:

I'll have the car with me on Sunday if you fancied a drive of one, be interested in your feedback mate.

Great bring it to Sweden and I'll give it a go.

The car is really a great and easy built, there is just one question... Maybe someone could explain me if i should run the slipper with or without that pin?
Many thanks, Ron.

http://s7.directupload.net/images/140717/zah2jvya.jpg

The slipper is the same as ZX5 FS http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150377

Thanks for your help!
It's my first KYO car, so i really have no clue how this pin will affect the slipper with it in place or without.
Could please someone explain it to me?
Cheers,
Ron

When the pin is in the slipper, it works as a normal slipper, front and rear axle slipps equally.
When the pin is not there, the front and rear axle can slipp differently, and it is a dual slipper. You can change slipper discs: UM571, LA205, UM516 to adust the handeling. :)

Many thanks!
Now i understand how to work with it.
Cheers, Ron.

Hi.
Now i'd just need to know, which one of the slipper plates grabs the most and which slips the easiest!?
UM571....red ones, big
LA205....dual sheets red/white, small
UM516...stock white ones
Anyone?
Thanks, best whishes,
Ron

Stock white ones with pin will be just perfect

If you want to try without the pin grab a red slipper pad to have different slipping properties front/rear (check FS2SP manual).

most grip -----------> most slip
std white std red UM571 red

I've run the UM571 reds in the front of my Lazers when running non-pinned slipper (95% of the time) as I like the fact that it gives a little under braking helping prevent front wheel blocking as you carry brakes in to the corners which suits my heavy handed driving style.

As a note of caution if running non-pinned and different grades of pad front to rear and the slipper is / becomes too loose the car will feel like it has WAY too much front end. If your rear suddenly becomes loose check the slipper before adjusting setup.

Hope that helps.

ZX6 is an awesome car, the more I drive it the more I love it and interestingly the less I change track-track or condition-condition.

My advice gents is to run the car without the pin with both white slippers pads.
We have been doing a lot of testing and its the quickest at present

Thanks for your help, mates.
Tony, on what surface you've been testing that slipper-setup?
Here, we're mostly driving on medium grip clay tracks.
Cheers,
Ron

Hi Ron
Astro tracks - high grip - bumpy!
It works very well
Set up on my website and a revised one after this weeks National incase of any changes

Considering purchasing a ZX6. Anyone give some feedback at all and how durable/what parts I should keep?

I've seen a few photos now where people have gone rear motor LH / shorty lipo RH, servo / receiver RH side, speedo LH side.

But servo RH side isn't a build option as per the manual, and the servo mounting plate doesn't fit that side. So I'm curious to know how you fitted your servo? Directly to the chassis? And this also affects the steering bell cranks as they need to swap sides. Does this have any effect on the steering?

Also, anyone got a good indoor carpet set-up yet?