I've run the supplied cap on my cars since running the R1 and now use them on the RS with no problem at all (and thats having used LRP/ PEAK and tekin motors). Speedo caps aren't there to give you more power, just smooth out the spikes to let the speedo run cooler and reduce the risk of damage to the FETS.

Not quite sure why you wouldn't want an RS for offroad... the R1 worked really well for a sensorless speedo and i had some good results with it but the RS is the best of both worlds.... faultlessly smooth starts and the safety of defaulting to sensorless if a sensor should fail.

Thanks for the help guys, I'm not sure if I should be running alternative Caps or not though. Regarding speed, My car is no where near as fast as when running my GTB speedo (same motr and gearing, do I have a faulty Tekin speedo?

with the RS, if you are running a motor with adjustable timming, like a Vortex, then you run it in sensored only mode, and by christ does it rev, or you run it in hybrid mode and wind the timming up on the esc. The RS is a better esc than the R1, especially when using the spec motors too.

Phil, I don't understand why it isn't working, you just need to check through everything again.

get the hotwire, it really is essential, or if you got a local Tekin driver, grab em and have them fiddle with your ESC on the hotwire, it makes a huge difference!!

I run mine in hybrid mode with the timing set to about 80%... i think factory setting is somewhere around 30%. It does make a huge difference and is a good way fo altering the characteristics... more timing more revs, less timing more torque.

right i have reset my esprit 3 and reset the speedo again , and all was well for 30 seconds with the car reving up and down then went back to leds 1&2 and 6&7 flashing again , i also noticed the motor is doing a very weak beep noise , and no i dont have the hot wire yet , is this speedo not ok for off road ?

If you have it in brushed mode the motor does do a beep noise... i checked mine yesterday. Not quite sure whats wrong then

The speedo is perfect for offroad.. don't worry about that:)

Key, if you can adjust the timming on the motor, turn it up and try it in sensored only mode!!!

I never said a capacitor will give you more power (but it will, it will give you more initial punch). Power capacitors are there as much for your battery as they are your ESC. The very low internal resistance is brilliant for providing that initial boost of energy and take the strain away from the battery and ESC.

And of course brushless ESC's need large power capacitors to filter out the voltage ripple. And 300 millifarads in not large! Take a typical dicharge under a 60 ampere burst, the cap would be empty after 0.000037 seconds... you just worry at that size how effectively it can smooth voltage ripple. A 1000 millifarad capacitor would take 0.0001233 to empty flat which is much more reasonable I feel.

Of course on the RedLines I'm sure the small cap is fine, as the motors are smooth and software works properly. I am not suggesting you will have a problem, so I am not surprised when it is said it works fine with other motors. I just wonder why put it under the extra strain though.

As for the RS, I suppose being able to operate both sensored and sensorless is great, so you don't loose anything. I just feel that sensored technology is inferior so would never find a reason to run it. The only reason the RS was made is that ROAR have some stupid rules and you basically have to make a Novak style sensored motor to be race legal (hence the sensorless RedLines are not ROAR legal). It is for this reason also that Castle Creations do not have a ROAR race legal set up as they are not willing to make inferior technology to meet a rule (yet).

I think also the R1 had some issues at first with the slower motors (13.5T etc) at first too, but the latest software sorts this out no problem. :)

no, the cap is there to help the fets open and close more efficiently, as with the power going through them, as the heat builds up, they become inneficient, the cap can give that instantaneous busrt to help open/close the gate better than the battery can.

Kind of the same thing mate. As I outlined in my post, there is more than one reason for having a power cap. Firstly for power supply, as I said takes away strain from battery and provides more punch (as with brushed) which allows power surges (more punch) reduces ESR and so on. These are more beneficial effects of a power capacitor.

The second reason is more of a requirement than a desire. As you say the power cap is essential in helping the FETs operate efficiently. This is because the power capacitor effectively dampen the voltage ripple and dramatically reduces temperature and overall load on the system.

Are there any alternative power caps I can get in this country, or where can I get tekin power caps in this country. What are the options?

Regarding hotwire, I have it, and ran default settings, in hybrid mode, with 32% timing (as recommended for a 4.5) and it was still slow?

try dms as they stock tekin, as do the race place

Not sure if this is the same kind of problem but on my Tekin FX brushed esc, I set it up correctly and all it did was blink some lights at me. When I looked up what the lights meant, it says the ESC wasn't finding neutral correctly (this is after doing radio calibration properly). Apparently, Tekin ESC's have a set range it expects the radio neutral to be in (regardless of radio calibration) and my old transmitter true neutral (with sub trim 0 and trim smack in the middle) has wandered outside this range over the years. I adjusted the sub-trim until the ESC was willing to start up and re-calibrated the radio. Haven't had any problem since.

Since you mentioned your lights are diagnosing wrong motor type, I'm guessing you're having a different problem but just thought I'd mention mine on the off chance it might be useful to you.

the first part is an off-shoot of the esc's being driven more efficiently on the opening and closing cycle, the Cap isn't there to increase punch, just to assist them, as a Cap can give far more over the tiny time it takes to open/close the fet than a battery can. The off-shoot is the ESC runs cooler, more efficiently, and then feels punchier.

Today I received a reply from Tekin. From their response, I can say I am very pleased with the way they are dealing with this issue. They have confidence in their speedo, and these issues will be resolved.

i sent an email to tekin 4 days ago how long did it take for them to reply ?

Has anyone been running with the new sensored motors as well as the RS Pro?and has it all been ok?

Really keen on the hybrid/size elements but worried about reliability!

A base setup for a 5.5 would be good too! Does it have any Lipo cut off?

am running both the rs pro and the redline sensored motors as well as is kev lee and john spencer. all 3 of us are running issue free. me personally im loving it, i find the speedo is smoother than what i was running with a lot more feel on the lower end, i run less timing then what kev does as prefer a bit more grunt out of the car. do you have the hot wire as any setup data i post will be from that. it has a lipo cut off as well and it does work as i have run the car down far enough to check, as for reliability i have run the tekin in heavy rain when i wouldnt of even dreamed of running my older stuff and it lasted the run without issue. buy tekin motors and speedo's with confidence, i know i did ;)

Yep I have the hotwire, any advice/setup much appreciated!