oOple.com Forums - DEX210v2

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- - DEX210v2 (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142750)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danosborne6661 (Post 834442)

I imagine Durango have made a RF block that allows you to run 0 anti-squat.... surely?

When i was locking on the pick of the type b parts, i think there is one with 0 kick-up typed on it!?

http://www.team-durango.com/part-inf...artNo=TD330578

Edit: Oh, i'm sorry, when you use the -2 LRC block, it will give you again anti-squat....:wtf:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Origineelreclamebord (Post 834436)

Lowering the RR hanger 2mm adds 3 degrees of anti-squat. So if they changes nothing on the chassis or RF hanger, it'll be 3-6 degrees of anti-squat. I only run MM4 and I only really run 0 and 1.5 degrees - I've run 3 degrees on carpet just once, the rest of the time the car needs the 0 deg - particularly with the HRC, but with the LRC I think the car (for my tracks and setups) will still be best off with a mild anti-squat setting.

As for the DIMEC chassis, I understand the whole idea of flex, but flex is not the way to gain grip on low-bite tracks - I'm sure it helps, but it doesn't do as much as dialled in shocks, or a ball diff over a gear diff. In addition, a plastic chassis results in a light car, and with the bumpy tracks I drive on you need a heavy car to soak up the bumps. Lastly, I have yet to witness someone breaking an alu DEX210 chassis, and the DIMEC doesn't quite have the same reputation :lol:

Look at the other brands that introduce flex into the chassis or screws you can back off on the side pods. Flex is part of getting grip on low bite tracks. Mind you, you still need a good setup on shocks for low bite in order to get the grip and to use the right tires. As for low bite, it really doesn't matter whether you have a ball or gear diff. It matters the tension or resistance on the diff. Try a thicker oil on the rear gear diff like 7k or 10k on low bite and tell me how it feels. As for a heavier car to soak up bumps, you can also try using lighter oils instead of adding weight.
Use something like a 3x 1.5mm 27 front and 20 or 25wt rear. Depending on temp. As for the low bite tracks I drive on, first of all I use a RM4 transmission to get me max grip. 10k gear diff. I am running 3 degrees antisquat to give the most acceleration out of a corner. Actually I run HRC and not LRC, cause when the car rotates, it rotates more consistent with the HRC block.

Any diff updates? not that I've had bother with the ball diff, but it could be more conventional and alot of people did struggle with it in the begining, it would seem odd to upgrade some of the car but still leave inherent problems from the first kit.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NeilRalph77 (Post 834746)

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDXMJ&P=7

Going by Towerhobbies' information, the car should have the long outdrives :)

But still the odd circlip design?

I'm looking into something about that, hopefully 'something' surfaces in the next 6 or so months ;)

Quote:

Originally Posted by NeilRalph77 (Post 834827)

But still the odd circlip design?

I never had a single issue with it and I think it's quite clever than your thrust bearing doesn't fall apart immediately when you open up the diff. Also, you can assume that if a slightly different geometry would help the build/prevent the circlip from undoing itself, they would've picked that up and improved it for the kit.

And if you dislike it that much, I recall stories of people fitting other cars' diffs in there? :eh?:

i dont understand, what this guy is talking, but there are some nice closeups....

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OYePXcSDmBk&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DOYe PXcSDmBk

Quote:

Originally Posted by NeilRalph77 (Post 834746)

not that I've had bother with the ball diff, but it could be more conventional and alot of people did struggle with it in the begining.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Origineelreclamebord (Post 834895)

I think it's quite clever than your thrust bearing doesn't fall apart immediately when you open up the diff.

And if you dislike it that much, I recall stories of people fitting other cars' diffs in there? :eh?:

Just to point out the line NOT THAT I'VE HAD ANY BOTHER WITH IT clears that up!

And you can put a caged thrust race in a more conventional diff,

The point I was making was how many threads did you read, my diff doesn,t work, my diff did this, this diff sh*t, changed to a geardiff cos the ball diffs???, etc etc etc

And then onto the slipper this, the slipper that, I have to run mine to this day with a washer between the large layshaft bearing and the inner slipper plate otherwise it won't adjust up.

I'm not ragging the car I love mine far better than the thing I replaced it with whilst waiting for the V2 so I've gone back to it.

I think the complaints against the diff and slipper far out way your 1 vote for the thrust bearing, which to my mind mean it should have been looked at for the version 2.

I was told (not by someone at Durango either) that the thrust race used is the smallest 'industrial' and therefore hardwearing size there is, its just too big to go in the other side!