Hi Optiman,

Thanks for the reply, and the links as well. You're right that is a lot to part with for a small piece of lexan!

I'm hoping to have the missing stabilizer link in the spare lazer parts I have, but I will have to change out the spring collars for the correct ones.

I'm sure the shopping list will start growing pretty quickly.

Colin

Hi Terry,

Had a check on the motor, and I think it's a speedworks monster mash?? - the only visible words are works, and mash. So don't think I can be wrong there :thumbsup:

Do you know anything about that motor?

Colin

Trinity Speedworks Monster Mash, a 16 turn motor designed for plenty of torque as originally designed for the Clodbuster with the Monster Mash 2 reverse running motor. A modified can so you can pop it part and rebuild it.If you want to run it I can skim the armature for you.

As for the lexan belt cover, ten minutes with a piece of scrap lexan bent into a U shape and trimmed will give you a cover that will do the job of keeping dirt out of the belt without going to an overpriced ebay shop.

Well I'm surprised it's been over 2 years since I last posted on this thread. I've finally managed to spend some time on the Optima, and actually get the chassis completed:thumbsup:.

Started off by working on the metal work, working my way up through the various grades of paper until I got the surface to a finish I was happy with.

Colin

Once the metal work was completed, i could move onto the actual rebuild.

Colin

Finished chassis. The only new parts are the belt, bearings, and new rear arms. I've upgraded the drive shafts to universals.

Everything else was from the original car.

Just need to find a new shell now, to finish it off.:thumbsup:

Colin

Looks great Colreid! I have restored many Optima's since I started collecting. They are fun to build. I see you found a bumper :) Hope it didn't set you back too much. Restoring these without buying new parts is more rewarding than just replacing everything (and much cheaper). Nice job buddy! ;)

Personally I prefer the metal look as on the second picture, so even color, but still a little dull, as I think it looks more "rough" and fitting an offroad buggy, but still a nice looking Optima, for sure.

I know what you mean about the bumpers, it took a long time to find one. It's not in great condition but does the job. When the new bumpers were coming up for sale, they were going for more than I paid for the whole chassis:confused:

Colin

I know what you mean about the look of the second picture, I nearly stopped at that stage; but decided to carry on.

If I start another, possibly a std Optima or Optima Pro; I'll keep any metal restoration a little duller/flatter.

One question I do have regarding the Turbo, I was going to upgrade the tie rods to adjustable turnbuckles; and have all the parts to do it. But i wasn't sure if they were an available option at the time, so left the standard ones on.

Were the adjustables available, or did they arrive later with the Optima Mid's?

Colin

I'm no expert, but last year managed to pick up an original turbo optima in pretty much original condition and the tie rods were not adjustable turnbuckles.

I restored mine to original optima but with gold shocks and added a belt conversion so I could use it occasionally for the odd run out.

Still brings a smile to my face when I see it going round the track

That's what they were built to do, it takes you back when there's a track full of old stuff :thumbsup:

Absolutely. And when there is an anticlockwise track it is even better as mine doesn't turn right too well due to the slightly iffy servo savers of the mid 80s.

That makes me feel as though I made the right decision then. This one came with the belt conversion so I was quite lucky there. Not sure I'd give it a run though, there's certain parts I would be worried about replacing again.

Of the older cars I've got I'd be more tempted to give my Lazer ZXR a run out.

That could be next on the list, once I've sorted out the body for the Turbo Optima.

Colin

Kamtec do an Optima Turbo shell (on e-bay) - I have had a normal optima shell from them in past and it was good so that is an option if you are looking?

Have fun, and which part is it you would struggle to replace? Id say run the Optima, but only in a race of other vintage cars so everyone takes a bit more care (that is the downside of re-re cars - they may be "old style" but with easy access to spares, sometimes they can go a little quick)

Will have a look at the Kamtec shells, I didn't know they produced one for the Turbo Optima.

I've not raced for around 4 years now, but a vintage race does appeal.

I think I'd be concerned about things like chassis rails (I've hardly ever seen genuine Kyosho ones come up), and some of the drive train parts really. I've managed to collect quite a few NIP spares along the way (got a bit carried away buying parts:thumbsup:), so a few areas would be covered.

It's been a fun and enjoyable build to take it from its original state to this, I'm quite pleased with the end result.

Colin

I've never seen an Optima with those, AFAIK these were not bundled with kits until the Mid series.

Thanks for letting me know, that's two people that have said the same thing. Really glad I didn't fit them now.:)

I've got three lemans motors for the car, a 360ST, 360PT and a 240ST, in the end I fitted the 240ST. Don't know if that was the best choice from the three?

Colin

I have one of the 360 motors, not sure if a PT or ST, and a 240 ST. For me the 240ST is the fastest, though it's still not as fast as a hotter modified motor.

Looks stunning, would advise not running it though and its easier to get bits for your Lazer than this. Spend a bit on a professional paint job, you wont regret it.

I myself wanted a bit of history and gone and bought all the cars I used and drove when i got drives and admit went overboard and done the electrics, including the chargers as well as the transmitter (I bought five of the same :( )and receivers plus of course motors so once you start its hard to stop.

Yes Kamtec do lots of stuff including the Parma tomcat shell for the Lazer or the Lazer ZXS which is a tighter fit and you need RC10B4 servo mounts and spacer to move the servo further forwards but is just as nice.