Why not build your own gear diffs? A mix of Durango and one or two ther manufacturers and you've got gear diffs.

Very complicated! Durango are too big, you will have to sand your plastic parts! and change dogbones too!

I quite like the balls diffs... But I do replace the Tamiya "thrustbearing" by a real one and now it is butter smooth...

90% of the time you have a crunchy diff, it comes from this part...

Hi Airwave

What do you replace them with?, as i'm at the point of no return with my ball diffs in the 502.

Cheers

TRF511 now discontinued on tamiyausa.com

Could indicate that new version will be released, probably with the upgrade kit.
Like TRF201 with upgrade set.

Ohhh, me like :)

I do hope they release a new car!!!!

I'm interested in this too?

Do the old style pre built thrust races still fit? I never had a problem with them?

I have the same 502 issues are others here, to avoid diff slip they end up tighter than I want them, and then gravelly very quickly!

I found the same Dave regarding the slip. I superglue the plates to the outdrives now and havent looked back. Next time you rebuild your diffs, look at the wear on the outdrives where the plates have been slipping ! Theres a flat machined on the outdrives but for some reason no flat on the diff ring which would cure the problem without the need for the glue. Try it.

I don't glue them, I use Tamiya AW grease: It's extremely sticky and thick, so it's so slow reacting that it won't slip (and it's more easily removeable than glue). That said, I like the ball diffs as well, but mine did get quite grainy. I cleaned everything but it was still grainy, so I think the thrust bearing is up next to replace (even though I used ceramic thrust bearing balls it's probably past the best life). I nowadays use a gear diff (in my 201) though, which also works well so far, so I feel no need to rush :)

Yeah i have tried the AW grease and the VG diff plate grease. The hard friction damper grease too. Its stickier than the AW stuff. Definitely better than diff lube on the backs of the plates, i found that they still slip on high grip surfaces though. I have a spare diff so i can leave the glued one soaking in Acetone overnight to remove the plates once in a while. It all depends what surfaces you race on as to whether you need to bother to glue them IMO.

I do confess guys, the real challenge was to find a thrustbearing which can fit the 2.6mm screw... Tamiya only sells 2mm...

So I look on the web, and after days of search (:D), I finally manage to found a compatible one....

http://www.redrc.net/2011/01/t-o-p-p...-fd-gear-diff/

Then I found a shop carrying TOP parts and ordered them... A really great improvement for me, I'm quite disabled when it comes to build a godd smoothy differential...

Hope this helps!

re
 

i found the thrust bearing airwave is on about, http://www.raceport.de/TOP%20Racing%...oducts_id=1120

only 5 euro, worth a try.

...or use the 417/201 thrust kit. It's not the same 'captured' ring style, but you can upgrade to ceramic thrust balls - or simply buy a complete B-fast thrust kit, available in carbide or ceramic.

My point is that captive balls are the key... The fact is that when the diff run at high speed, the balls are "ejected" by the centripetal force and roll on the inside face of the diff joints, and I'm not sure the inner surface is as polished as the pressure plates... My theory is that produces the "crunch effect" so fast!

Bu that's only my theory... :blush:

Airwave that's what I've always thought, just never been able to put it as nicely into words. Top job m8,
Scotty....

I bought buds balls ceramics for my TRF502 and never had any problems so far.
Scotty....

On my Touring car (TRF) I used ball diffs and ceramics (same on my 501x) and they probably get serviced twice a year.

I would used ceramic balls on the non captive Thrust bearings. I also use Tamiya AW grease on these. Its seems to keep the thrust bearing smooth for ages.

Well, it's an interesting theory, and makes a lot of sense, but I've never had the issue of thrust balls being ejected or running on the inside of the diff joint - most often when I check the rings, they have worn in the middle - not to the outside of the ring.

If it works for TC's running 4.0 motors, it'll work in a slipping and sliding off road buggy running 6.5's.

This parts set is designed for the TRF511 Chassis and includes a wide range of race-spec Option Parts to further improve its performance potential. The new carbon lower deck and aluminum rear suspension mounts enable the chassis to be compatible with square-shaped battery packs. The new aluminum motor mount shifts the motor position towards the center of the chassis. In addition, the use of 39T pulleys results in an optimum secondary gear reduction ratio.


Set Contents
2.25mm Carbon Fiber Lower Deck (new)
Aluminum Rear Suspension Mounts (new)
Aluminum Slide Motor Mount (new)
Aluminum Center Bulkhead Bridge (new)
Diff Joints (Front & Rear) (new)
Drive Belts (Front & Rear) (new)
TRF502X J parts (battery holder)
39T Ball Diff Pulley (Front and Rear)
TRF417 Diff Plates (Front and Rear)