How can you tell what batch the ball cups are from?

Mine are close to popping out by the looks of them but I doubt they will but the ballcups won't help fine TD have changed the material which was part of the problem. The main issue is the profile of the cup and ball which aren't a snug fit I'd say more like a wizard's sleeve. :woot:

At full droop on a heavy landing I suspect there's a possibility it could happen but it hasn't happened to me yet.

Take a washer out from under the inner rear camber ballstud so you're only running 1. If you run 2 on body roll you get excessive positive camber which on upward shock travel will try to pop the driveshafts out as someone has pictured.

One thing I've learned over the years is positive camber on body roll is wrong, the wheel shouldn't go past vertical which is what the 210 does with kit setup.

As Adam said, just contact TD so they can help sort out your problem.

I have been running the 210 for just over a year and have never had a driveshaft come out. I always run maximum droop at the rear too.

As far as the ball cups, ive also not had a problem since the materials were changed. I run kit TD ones always, with absolutely no issues.

Some silly comments here people, TD are always listening to customers feedback and looking for ways to improve their products. Their cars are are probably the most robust and easy to work on in the market.

If you have a problem with a product, you go back to the shop you bought it from or contact the manufacturer direct. The RC industry is no different.

Send them an email or give them a call, simples! :thumbsup:

Craig

Team Durango uk are very helpfull and are keen to listen and help customers resolve issues. I had some small issues with my 210 and they sorted it out for me and made sure I was happy. Can't say a bad word there.

I had an issue with a new 410 v3 kit and a snapped front drive shaft so I called Durango direct.

After a short chat with James ambrose I was supplied with 2 new drive shafts as a replacement free.

Track side I had a servo horn strip at regional and I didn't have one spare so Adam skelding stepped in and helped out which allowed me to carry on racing.

All I have seen from team Durango is total commitment to there products and the people that use them.

I would just ring them and have a chat you might just be surprised and how easy it gets sorted.

:thumbsup:

Nothing wrong With TD support, they helped me with the 410 when I had dodgy diff parts. There seems to be a lot more posts reference issues with the 210 than the 410. Saying that the 210 looks like its going to have a long successful future like the 410 maybe not a smooth one.

My first 210 came out the first batch. built it nightmares with the ball diff. (after wrecking the first one) and being ridiculous over charged for circlips.

130Mile round trip 1st outing waste of time and money.

Ball diff bined gear diff put in.
Insult out comes the online manual. if ots that critical should it not be in the book?

New car builds lovely even diff with new found knowledge.
100 Mile round trip driveshaft falls out.
practice diff undoes its self
1St round driveshaft falls out
Remove droop still falls out
Remove up travel drives poo.

use other car drive shaft pops out.
Car was fine on low grip high grip lots of chassis roll pop out.

2 Cars a year apart same problem this isn't defective parts this is geometry not complemening the driveshaft length.


I have now sorted the problem in a rather drasic way.

I have machined the outer bearings 1.2mm further into the hub. Shimmed the driveshaft with the silver 410 diff shims. Flushed of the exess plastic efectivly making the hub 1mm thinner or the driveshafts 1mm longer job done.

But why should I have too?

I have had a 210 out first batch and have been running it since december 2011.

I race at club level every week and have done this years regionals.

I have run it in mid motor format and also rear motor for oople.

We have drain pipe for track markers at our club which are hard to hit.

I have broken 1 rear shock tower, 1 front wishbone and 2 rear wish bones,and a servo horn stripped in 9 months use.

I have never has any issues with rear driveshafts and i am still on original ball joints that very rearly pop off.

I have just turned the plates over in the diff this week after running the diff untouched since building it.

In my experiance the car has been rock solid and i cant understand why people are getting so many issues.

I really don't understand this. I have a early 210 and know others who have them and don't have any driveshaft issues. Is there differences with the moulds or machining issues.

Talk to TD. It's not hard. Everyone find time to jump on here with problems and complaints which will ultimately slow the process down drastically. Contact TD. They WILL help you. Go racing. Enjoy the car. Smile. :thumbsup:

simple job.

Simple.

That's a bit ott!. All I did was put a gold shim on both shafts before fitting it to the hub and job sorted. :thumbsup:

0.1mm didn't make difference.

1.6mm did.

Just look at the photos

Shafts must be seriously short to have to drill that much out!!!. Think I would have definately contacted TD before I did that.

Hi everybody!
I just took a DEX210.
After three years ... someone can explain the "official" solution to this problem?
thank you :thumbsup:

There are actually three way you can do.
1. less droop at the rear, so the dogbones can not pop out
2. you can buy the longer out drives for the ball diff TD310417
3. you can order the geard diff, here also the out drives ar a bit longer TD210034

I hope this helps?

micholix,
Thank you so much for your help:wub
I think my choice will be the option n.3... so I'll try something different setup :woot:

You are wellcome!:)