I would always go BRCA approved as not using approved kit does affect the insurance aspect. Regardless if it's a brca sanctioned event.

Incorrect Mikey, Read page 24 of the 2012 handbook under 'Race Equipment'.

Saying that though, to get BRCA Hologamation the equipment needs to be vetted so is a worthwhile purchase for future, also it will give you a little piece of mind it's been check sufficently rather than something that has'nt.

I know Darren Boyle @ DMS has some knowledge on the Vampire LiPo's and the process/costs involved so maybe he could shed some light on it for us uninformed.

Fair enough it was mentioned to me by a brca rep. Either way I'd still go for approved kit.

Looks good to me re page 24.

I still wouldn't want any cheap crap in my cars :D :lol

Neil, Mike and everyone else that are part of organisations should in my opinion ALWAYS suggest BRCA legal equipment and nothing short of that.
Unless you want cheap rubbish from the far east that may blow up in people faces, or your club members not doing any regional events and so on...

Remember that even in an open classes at regional events the equipment has to be legal - It is a BRCA sactioned EVENT.....

HTH you poor guys - LOL

To whoever is asking the questions - just get Orion - its the best

Yup my thoughts :D along with Sanwa radio kit

Let me put it this way, we've had a few members recently who wanted to attend the regional events, but chose to purchase non legal kit. They now have to either not attend the regional or purchase the kit for a 2nd time in order to run at the BRCA sanctioned events.

Reminds me need to check the status of my car re weight etc. for this weekends regional event :D

True, they do make nice kit :)

hmmmm
 

NOT everyone wants to run in regionals.

And the price of the "legal" stuff is way overboard for budget club racers.

The cheaper stuff is still perfectly safe and legal and as safe as any other, as its sold that way, BRCA is only a UK thing. So lets remember the rest of the world excists! We are only a small island people!

I have used many non BRCA items and they perform perfectly at half the price.

Pay your money and take your choice. Simple really.......:thumbsup:

No quite true....... the BRCA govern the UK only yes, but the rest of the world is not a free for all though... The USA is governed by ROAR, and other counties are governed by their own national bodies and rules too like FEMCA, EFRA etc, they all also have rlevent products that can and cannot be used in their regions too.

If we all recall some countries (Japan included I think) did not allow LIPO's of "any" sort until long after the rest of the world had sanctioned them, that just simply meant they could not use them at their sanctioend events, no differnet really.

Some people seem to think that the BRCA are there to put a spanner in the works and make us all pay premium price for our equipment, they are not. The EB board has been put in place so that they can test all batteries (and motors) with strick tests and measurements to ensure they comply with what is known and deemed to be safe and legal, if anthing fails this it then does not make the relevent lists.

Not all BRCA approved equipment is top money, there are some very good value items all over the various lists that suit those racing on a budget. If you cannot all afford the premium brands such as Orion, Nosram/LRP, Reedy etc etc (and lets remember that they are "premium" - amongst the best avialable) then there are some very good budget priced items that will do the job, that way you are legal, able to race at all events and still quids in.

Hmmm indeed Darren.

I agree there is plenty of excellent non homologated equipment available at sensible prices.

Call me a cycnic but I would be interested to know exactly which products, that have been submitted with the appropriate fee, to the BRCA for homologation have actually been rejected on the grounds of safety?

It is difficult to interpret Tonys suggestion as entirely objective given his affiliation proudly displayed in his signature.

Or perhaps we should continue to do our best to scare away newcomers with sky high prices and scare stories about explosions.

What a load of old tosh!

Darren B makes a good point about the availability of affordable BRCA equipment however, Gens Ace and Hobbywing to name a couple. Which goes to prove that just because something is affordable it doesn't mean its unsafe.

yes
 

all points noted and agree on them, but its the rejection of items not on BRCA list but perfectly safe to use that gets me.

I have used non brca stuff lots and no faults at all as have many thousands of others all over the world.

We need to encourage newcomers to the hobby and not scare them away as Pip mentioned.

BU

Can we stop this now, as its really about a newcomer(reterning) to the hobby, not about our feelings on the legal/non legal stuff......

make a new thread on the open forum under electrics etc if you need to.

thanks people......:thumbsup:

Gents....the worse thing about forums is people talking about stuff that really they know little about.
I have seen rubbish Lipos go up and its not a nice site., I promise you and that is the reason BRCA events HAVE to use a Lipo sack......they have seen it too....and that is why all equipment is checked and it goes on in that fashion.
Darren has the valid points here and its also obvious that I will promote Orion - it is the best after all and that is why I use it. I have never said other products are not good.
Now I agree with Darren that many items are legal and good, just not as good (LOL)
Finally, I know of many many items rejected by the BRCA....I can get a list together if you really wish .....
Now Gents it is correct the thread is to help for a beginner and this is why he or she should know not to buy cheap because like the saying says, you buy twice......

That's me done.....catch up laters all......

Well I've only gone and done it. Thuis morning I bought online a bunch of kit from Apex to get a rollign chassis etc. The reason being if I bought everything at the beginning I'd rush it so I thoguht ti better to build it right i.e patiently the first time.

So what did I get...

SAVOX SC-1258 STANDARD SIZE CORELESS DIGITAL SERVO

SPEKTRUM DSM 3CH SR3500 MICRO RECEIVER

SPEED PASSION GT - LPF BRUSHLESS ESC VERSION 2.0 CARBON 5.5T

LRP VECTOR K4 BRUSHLESS MOTORS - 8.5T

MRT PERSONAL LOW PROFILE TRANSPONDER FOR AMB


TEAM LOSI "22" 1/10TH 2WD COMPETITION BUGGY KIT

CERAMIC DIFF BALLS - 3/32"
WIRE
ALUMINIUM 25T SERVO HORN
BATTERY CONNECTORS


So that leaves a few bits like batteries, Tx etc to go.

I also bought a Phat body shell to get around the tughtness a little

So all I need do is find some time to build this once its arrived. Thanks for all the help so far - I do have one question - I know I need a 48Dp pinion according to the Losi website, how many teeth would someone recommend?

Have fun building it :) and look forward to seeing you at one of the decent number of tracks in the South.

Re Pinions give Neil at RW Racing [email protected] a shout when you know what size you need. I don't know what the standard spur gear is or the FDR of the gearbox is on the 22.

Re pinions get the hardened steel pinions not the alu ones.

Speak with either Chris Ellis, Darren Parker, James Lucas at the track Chris, all 3 run the 22, will also give you a good set up for the shocks etc. Also I think the washers and shims need to be in certain places. They'll help loads though :)

The main thing is we have another mad member of the 1/10thoff road brigade. Looks like you've got the bug properly, look forward to seeing you again soon :thumbsup:

PM SteveB for further Losi 22 tips too as he won the TORCH summer series last year with it and made the A final at the F345s

well done
 

Glad you made the choices.

Pinion. well, I use a 7.5 and normally a 19/20/21 pinion....

I would get a couple to start with, maybe a 19 and 21.

as mentioned the steel ones are better, there only about £4.00 each so cheap to get a few for gearing changes. Tighter tracks need the lower pinion(shrccc) and larger ones(torch) need a larger one....

Good luck with the build........:woot::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Done :)

Well it's arrived :drool:

I said to Neil and Darren that a parcel had arrived and I was expecting it to either be the car and a few rolling bits or all the electrical gear, tyres, accessories or what have you I.e. I did 2 orders and expected 2 deliveries.

Apex have only gone and bundled both orders into one box!

It's fantastic news. There are a few small bits on back order like the ceramic balls for the diff and the aluminium servo horn which will delay the build but seeing as I don't have much spare time until after the end of June I can, begrudgingly, be patient. I do hope to have it running before then though.

cool
 

Build it with the standard balls and the normal plastic horn. as kit. easily changed at a later date. and diffs nbeed rebuilding from time to time anyway. get it rolling asap and see you soon!!!:D

So the build has started and I'm loving it - given the little amounts of spare time I hvae currently

So I've done section A (front end minus suspension) and section B (rear end minus suspension and running gear)

But a thought has come to mind - the turnbuckles and arms are very clearly defined as lenghts such as 76.3mm. I habve no micormeter and wondered how everyone manages to set the symmetry of the car etc so that once its built it runs in a straight line.

I.e. how on earther do I manage the tracking etc? I can't remember how I used to do 20 years ago?

I fear this may be the first of some dumb questions