Worlds kit
 

I finished my Worlds kit over the weekend. Went together really well. Quality seems better than early kits.

The one piece chassis is really nice but really can't see where they get £85 from. As I say it's nice, just not that nice.

Will be racing it indoors next week.

Well, with those prices for the alu chassis there's room for someone to step up and make an affordable version themselves - much like this guy did for the DEX210 (click) :) It can only be a matter of time, right?

Mmmmmm, not so sure. Anytime you involve a kick up then it becomes expensive. Especially if you are going to do it in small numbers.

Carbon fibre would be nice but I doubt it'd be any cheaper.

You are right, the kickup will add costs, but not to the likes of 85GBP: It's quite similar in the amount of manufacturing work to the DEX210 chassis, which only costs 37GBP. The TLR22-4 chassis (which is undeniably intricately manufactured) comes in under 60GBP.

So with this information, I bet that the flat plate can be sold at healthy profits for as little as 25GBP and the one-piece chassis no more than 40GBP despite the kickup feature.

What seems weird to me though (now I looked it up) is that I can't find whether the sidepods are available seperately - and if so, how much they cost.

I can only imagine Yokomo pushes those prices up so people are more tempted to buy a whole kit instead of buying the parts seperately. It gets the second hand market going for the BMax 2s (possibly increasing market share - even if it's not with new kits, it is with spares). If people commit to buying the Worlds car but also keep the old car, they invest more in their brand and are more likely to stay customers for a while - which is not a bad thing with the fierce competition we currently have in the buggy market :)

Dont think the sidepods are available on their own. The come with the new chassis and the flat alloy chassis. Never saw them on their own.

Dont suppose they are going to bother to cater for people not buying their products.

http://www.teamyokomo.eu/yokomo-euro...m-main-chassis

Just checked and they are available on their own. Result.

I'm currently searching a way to produce the worlds chassis cheaper. First I'm looking into a Dutch supplier and if they can't produce, possibly I have to go overseas.

I helped building a worlds Saturday. Build went together smoothly. Chassis is pretty sweet. I'm slightly jealous.:D

I'm also designing a new brace (which is in #B2-118MR) to mount a 25/30 MM fan for those high temperature days. My 3D drawing skills are not that great (it takes a lot of time :lol:), but I guess I can 3D print some test parts soon. A friend of me has a 3D printer, so the first prototypes are cheap for me to produce.

I had a meeting yesterday. My shock setup (with CSI pistons) was good. Car was, despite the too thick differential oil (5000), pretty good. Need some work on the sliding: need more grip in the rear.

I had one good run in total. First qualification was a bit crappy, second was, to my standards, pretty solid and the third my battery died on me. So overall a crap qualification. Thus I went to a final lower to my standards (no problem, I'm always having fun :thumbsup:), but most of the people didn't knew how to pass or let people pass, lots of bumping and crashing in result. They even smacked/bumped me in the border before the straight when I was passing someone. :confused:

Really love the B-Max2, I'm starting to understand the car. Hope to get more speed during the new season.

TD310023 driveshaft boots fit nicely on the bmax. Got to keep the dirt out.

Yokomo do their own:
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...ber-boots.html

That's good to know if these fail (I did not test them yet). Thanks Neal.

Skyaflake, when do you use the plastic and when the cf chassis? I preferred the original B-Max2 chassis over the MR plastic chassis as it felt more consistent (stiffer in the rear). I'd go back for the old chassis, but I'll probably keep the car in mid-motor config for the whole season, even on the lower traction tracks in Hamm and Dortmund. I am not a point-and-shoot guy.

So I've had about 4 testing days since I bought the car. On wednesday I only had less than two hours time, so the only thing I changed was to move the front hubs back (spacer in front of the hub).

This made a huge difference in on-power steering. Before, the front end would wash out in the fast turns and now it sticks. The first day the car had me frowning, but on wednesday it had me smiling. It kinda feels like my dex210 but more planted and lots of rear traction.


My setup:
https://workspaces.acrobat.com/?d=K3...pp-nxpfg7c5NwQ

I mostly drive on medium (to high) grip tracks, so the CF chassis is fine. I would use the plastic on low/medium traction only and I don't drive on those tracks very often. So I just stick with the CF chassis for now. I only drive mid-motor, haven't raced the car in rear-motor configuration yet, as I don't need to. :blush:

I broke two pieces of it on my B-max4III as I was driving on carpet. The metal must be bad, never had this problem on any yokomo's before... I had to finish the race as 2wd, as I didn't have the spares...

I started driving the CF chassis in mid on our outdoor dirt/clay track. The track was redone, with new clay and the surface isn't really settled yet, it's slippery as hell.
The lighter weight of the CF vs the aluminium makes it easier to shift the weight around, so on slippery stuff it's already better than the aluminium. Didn't run the plastic chassis on this surface yet.

The Mid setup is still pretty far from easy to drive, accellerating makes it spin out way to fast, but besides that the car handles great. We'll see how things develop.

So far I like the CF chassis! :thumbsup:

Sounds good! As the first of the two races on slippery dirt I am planning to attend will be held in late June, I've got plenty time to think about getting one... :)
Car was great this weekend, just made too many driving mistakes in the qualifiers and ended up CQ. I quit early as I wasn't too fond of running in a field of eleven on a tight indoor track, but at least I could refine my carpet set-up a bit. Coming from Schumacher (old-school) staggers and mini pins, I'll give PL's carpet tyres a try at the Intermodellbau NORC race. Hopefully the Wedge Squared front tyres will provide a little more steering.

Is there a thread on oople where I can get a CFchasis for the BMAX2 from?

Contact skyaflake or try the links in his signature. ;)

Jep. Just contact me by using the website or a PM on oople is OK too. :thumbsup:

Anyone with access to a B5M body? I wonder if the B5M Phantom might fit on the B-Max2MR... :confused:

I have had my geared diff strip internals after about 5 week's. Running 7k oil on carpet. Has anyone else had these fail? Is anyone shinning the gears as I was advised it wasn't required. Any help appreciated.

What ? The metal ones..... :eh?:

(I assume you know the plastic gears are for stock/spec only)

I did not experience any problems with the plastic internals, but several others did. When the metal internals became available I installed them to play safe.

http://eos.redrc.net/2014/03/chassis...o-matsukura-2/

Is it just me or does that car feature a front hex wheel conversion by Yokomo?

It is the metal diff gears I am using.

OMG that spur gear cover. :D

Everybody knows thats fotoshopped to trick the opponents! :lol:

YES PLEASE!

Not forgetting the motor mount

Special LCG version! :p

No release date yet for the hex conversion, probably as soon as my AE parts arrive. ;)

Yokomo Bmax2 worlds car
 

Is the yokomo bmax2 worlds car any good on low to medium grip surfaces like outdoor sandy or wet astro turf? Thanks

If set up properly, it will be more than capable. With a more flexible chassis, (in this case plastic or skyaflake's cf chassis) any car will be more forgiving to a less than perfect set-up und as such easier to drive on lower grip tracks.

Thanks, I think I am going to probably go for the factory team yokomo bmax2 then to suit the tracks I race on then if I get one.

Considering the price of the worlds chassis alone I'd probably get the worlds car and go for an additional (cheaper) more flexible chassis. You can also tune chassis flex with the cf and plastic battery mounts.

Ok I'll bear that in mind thanks :)

Has anyone found an aluminum replacement for those hub shims? I mean the transparent and black ones? These transparent especially are brittle like sh$t.
I've seen a photo of Naotos car with some blue anodized ones, but cannot find them...

I had to use one of these (cannot remember which thickness) and a kit black shim, as two kit ones were too tight.

http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...lt/?q=ZC-A3610
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...lt/?q=ZC-A3615
http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...lt/?q=ZC-A3620

New Yokomo Europe FR brass suspension mount available:
https://scontent-b-ams.xx.fbcdn.net/...98323306_n.jpg

Great for low traction situations. Yokomo Europe's quality is great, as usual.

As I'm mostly driving on medium to high traction tracks there's no need for me to actually use it, but I could use it as a tuning option.

I'm currently (slowly) rebuilding the B-Max2 with a hard gearbox (i've ran the stock gearbox since it came out, never had problems) and with a harder ackermann plate (made out of carbon) which i'm going to test. I had to shim the steering posts to reduce the slop. Feels smooth again.

My shocks held up great and they will only get some fresh o-rings and oil. I'm using CSI pistons at the moment, but will switch to 1.7/1.6*2 soon. Just to feel the difference as some team-drivers prefer them over the 4 hole design.

The only thing i'm currently thinking about is to switch to a 6.5 motor for outdoor. I prefer a little bit of overpower, so probably for me it's fine. The only downside is the battery drain. So I will need to test if I can drive about 9-10 minutes (just to be sure) with a shorty in the car. Let's hope so.

I'll pick one of these up this week as MB have them due in.



I just did mine. Replaced topshaft and bearings as well as going back to new plastic idlers. I found that the topshaft was wearing away the first idler, which was leaving aluminium filings inside the gearbox. The first ali idler was worn with angled teeth, as if contact with the topshaft was not square. Hopefully the new bearings and hard case will sort this out? The second ali idler, the one that drives the diff was not worn at all. I caught it all before a failure anyway.
I wonder if its best to run steel topshaft, plastic idler, ali idler then to diff?

Have you got a photo of this please?


You should easily get that run time. I've had 20mins out of mine with shorty and 7.5 outside.