2000cst :)

Tamiya anti wear grease is the made for this purpose. Use that mate.

Is anti wear a little thick for this application?

The grease's intention is for metal to metal to plastic contact. You don't need a lot, put a little on the gears, spin the transmission up and you get an even coat on all the gears, I tend to pull the box apart afterwards and clean off be excess that's forced out to the case.

If your worried about a little stiction by running this, remember the motors we use are plenty powerful and what stiction there is in the transmission is minimal, certainly not detrimental to performance.

Or do as a few others have said and use diff gear oil, which its purpose is to cause internal friction between planetary gears to give a specific rotating action.

Each to there own and I'm sure everyone has there own way of doing this, this is just my take on it. I find if something is designed for a certain use, it generally is the best method.

I now use this Hiro Seiko after I ran out of Tamiya anti-wear grease. Hope that helps.

http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...ar-grease.html

Many thanks for your reply. Anti wear it is then!

Try not to get anti wear grease in the bearings.

I would get some finish line wax lubricant for bike chains.
It stops the dirt getting picked by the grease and allows the bearing to run really free.


On to another subject how is everyone getting their car to grip slippy wooden floors without adding extra weight?

I had a meeting today. I broke down my ESC a while a go so I took my old TC ESC and my god, what a crappy drive. Car was pretty decent (lacking on power low-mid corner though, need to find that out coming weeks), but I was crap. But the first heats felt like I went from Stick to Wheel and felt like I was driving with my eyes closed. Total different feeling and I wasn't even coming close to practice times.

But, car was solid. Didn't brake a thing :thumbsup:

Even tried a secret hop-up (nobody noticed), but I'm not sure if it feels all right. More testing soon.

Somebody more tips on more low-mid corner on-power steering? I was thinking about reducing droop in the rear?

Holy crap, I even touched your car and I didn't noticed the secret hop-up? :confused::lol:

It was a piece of carbon glued under the steering bridge. I'm looking into making it out of carbon for a more direct feeling. Still testing though :p

To strengthen the steering arm?, that has the steering balls on?

Yes. I was just testing things out (it was a small piece between the two steering balls). But my driving was not that great (actually really crap :lol:) yesterday. If possible I'm going to test some further on Saturday. Depends on available time.

@skyaflake: More on-power steering: My first guess would have been less droop in the front, maybe more anti-squat. If you are not already running long wheelbase, that could also be worth a try, as it shifts weight a little more to the front.
Almost forgot, try adding a spacer under the ballstuds on the steering rack to increase Ackermann. The other day, we moved the ballstuds on a fellow SC10 racer's ride to the back to decrease steering, and it worked quite well.

Bmax2 MR V2 FK
 

I ordered mine last week. Will be a little bit different from my current B4 I guess....
Delivery date indicated by Skyaflake (just a wild guess) end of December, beginning of January. Hmmmmm

You are right. That's me :p

Hi skyaflake,

What's this carbon brace you say is required with the carbon chassis?

Hi guys,

I need a bit of help here...
How tight do you adjust your ball diff?

No matter how much I tighten the diff, it still slips :confused:
Tightening the slipper all the way down and holding the wheels, doesn't make the front pop up...the diff just barks.

Should I take it apart and sand the diff rings?

Any advise would be greatly appreciated! :)

You don't need a carbon brace for the chassis. You'll need to small brace that comes with the Alu chassis. At the moment Yokomo does not sell it separately, i'm looking for a way to get the braces though (so you don't need the Alu chassis). Maybe produce them by myself.

I would take it apart for sure. I always screw my diff handtight and then turn it loose for about '10 minutes' or 1/6th of a whole turn and go from there.

You either built it wrong or your slipper is way too tight. Did you build it from new or is it a rebuild with aftermarket parts? What lube did you use?

Ola!

I haven't seen the YOK diff in real life yet, but it can't be much different from an Asso one.
My experience: once it has been slipping, it will be very hard to get it to stop slipping without replacing the balls, and sanding the drive plates.
During slipping, you're actually polishing flat spots on your balls (how does that sound? :D), which means that they can never run true again.

Thanks for all the replies!

I just finished rebuilding the diff and everything is good:thumbsup:

The only thing I did differently this time, was sanding the rings.
They were not exactly flat, but a few minutes with the sandpaper took care of that.

I learned a lesson here..if in doubt, sand!

Hi viking 252200
Just remember to set the slipper back to the factory measurement or you might strip the idler gear.

1.8 laps on the indoor track. Better luck next time.

Great vid mate, did you use a gopro?

Yes. Hero3+.

Great thing. Only recorded at 720p, will try 4k next time :p

Look at that X6 at start of the vid, amazing car! :D:thumbsup:

Frame rates too low to even bother with 4K if filming fast moving objects. 720p with 60/120fps is what you want.

Yeah i know. It will record 1080p at 60fps. 4K will be used for some static filming.

Yeaaaah :thumbsup:

Looking good. Can you post your setup for that track please? Or a link to it
Cheers

Sure. Will do on Thurs/Friday.

It's a slight adjusted version of : http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/...e_Mio20131009/

So first race of the year is over and it was fun!
Spent too much time on the roof, but at least i didn't finish last!:D

Now, this is only the second time out with the Yokomo (the last 2wd buggy I had was Tamiya's Astute...quite a few years back:blush:) and I am in need of some guidance...

My track is mainly hard packed dirt with a loose layer of dust, which we valiantly try to remove before each run...without much success though.
It's also a very tight and technical track.

I run my Yokomo in mid motor configuration and I seem to struggle with lack of traction.
I know a big part of it is down to me and my lack of driving skills(since some of the really fast guys also run mid motor)

Do you guys have any tips for getting some more traction thus making the car a bit easier to drive or should I just go for rear motor option?

Any help is greatly appreciated!
http://www.oople.com/forums/data:ima...AAAElFTkSuQmCC
http://www.oople.com/forums/data:ima...AAAElFTkSuQmCC

I saw something last night on RCTech for the bmax2, but I'm not sure if this is only for the RM version. they suggested spacing the transmission from the chassis as raising it up improve forward traction.

But Personally i think i'd be running rear motor if traction is that low!

Rear motor defo, one of masamis setups from yokomo website

Its for the RS model. I've seen some company made a clear plastic insert for that car that goes between the chassis and the gearbox.

Good video, why bothered filming in 4k not many people have screens that can play 4k.

Azarashi made these parts for the original B-Max2 before the MR/RS versions were around. These parts were not really needed, some 2mm spacers did the job just as well. Raising the tranny is good for forward bite, a similar mod seems to be quite popular for the TLR 22 series.

Just rebuilt the ball diff on my bmax mr in mid layout, put all back together and realised I have put the diff in backwards so screw driver slot for adjustment is on the transmission side. Looking at it there is no binding or anything, so does it matter which Way it goes in? Or do I really need to take it all apart and swap it round?
Any advice appreciated.

It can loosen it's self off and wreck the balls and plates so I'd change it.

hi there

on the eos berlin pictures, lee martin and naoto drives hex wheel on front

mihael

Just Lee from what I can see, Pro-Line wheels as he's a Pro-Line factory driver he may be working with them for a hex conversion product.

Naoto looks standard fit to me.

Lee posted on facebook that he uses AE steering arms and hexes "until Yokomo has something ready". I hope that'll be the case soon. ;)