Hi Guys,

Here is Otto'setup @ Tomelilla

And here you have some more for the 22.

HTH
Arnaud

Interesting first night with my 22, electrical issues and no practise is a good start.

In the qualifies I had massive understeer, changing things to combat this but nothing seem to change, the front end of the car felt dead and had no rebound, so rebuilt the shocks, and turns out (as discussed else where) that the o-rings are pinching onto the shaft causing it to bind up, so unwound the o-ring cap a bit until the shocks were free, what a difference, over half a second a lap quicker, finished 3rd in the end, and ended up with laps competing with the top runners. Think this is a issue that needs resolving. Think the car will be super quick and pleased to be with the front runners only after 4 races (1 decent one :thumbsup:)

Will post setup later in week for the moto arena

Paul

Would using green slime on the o rings help matters

Funnily, not had an issue with my shocks (apart from really disliking 4 hole pistons).

Any updated setups from the team for outdoors? I would guess a lot more setup development has happened since the car has been released.

Cheers,
Ben

Question on you guys drilling holes in your ball cups. What is the easiest way to do this? I was thinking of taking a punch or body reamer to mark a spot on the inside of the ball cup, then drill the appropriate size hole.

Any other ways of doing it that would be easier or better?

You dont really need to mark it, just go straight through from the inside with a drill and clean up the outside with the body reamer.

Join the club.

My personnal brass weight system for mid motor (70g), splittable into two parts:

http://img863.imageshack.us/img863/9421/img0429h.jpg

http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/4356/img0431z.jpg

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/4782/img0432b.jpg

http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/9623/img0423sz.jpg

and side brass weight (23g each) design to be inserted into plastic sidewalls:

http://img864.imageshack.us/img864/5613/imageyg.jpg

Looks good :thumbsup: I love the rear one that you can split in half!

They are fantastic, can we buy them from you?

What screw set is that your using ?

why do you guys drill a hole in your ball cups?

its so that you can unscrew the ball stud using a driver in through the hole, which avoids the need to keep taking the ball cup off... constantly taking the ball cup off can stretch the plastic slightly and cause your ball cups to become saggy and not very tight!

To adjust them while still on the car.

It's only a hand made prototype. No release planed :blush:

Screws are common socket head screw, tapered with lathe. I prefer using a 2.5mm hex driver than it's little 2mm brother :D

:thumbsup:

UK baseline setup

is it posted on the web somewhere?

It's on the first post of this thread :).

That along with others are on PetitRC:

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/Se...TwentyTwo.html

Has anyone noticed a lot of front camber change under load?

I'm currently running the setup out of the manual (camber link on #1 (inner hole) on tower with 2mm spacers and 0mm spacers on the caster block) with 1 degree negative camber, to gain a base platform to build from.

Is this something common to this setup?

I originally ran the car as kit with the spacers on the castor blocks and it did oversteer quite a bit (particularly mid-corner). Try using the 2mm spacers on the tower- this did make the car more balanced. Also use 3mm spacers on the rear outboard.