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Team Losi Racing
(http://www.oople.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=17)
my 22 has a lot of bump steer haw can i get rid of it ?
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What c hubs are you useing? With 10* you need a 2mm spacer, with 5* you need none, with 0* or 3* your on your own, I don't think you can help it
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One important note, you need to be an adaptive driver. It's very different to drive than a midmotor, but just as fast if not faster when you adapt to it. |
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Bump Steer will also be affected by what kick-angle you are running.
I run 25 deg Kick with 5 deg blocks and no washers on the steering arm and have pretty much zero bump steer. But if I use the taper 20 deg kick wedge, then I can get massive bump steer. The other thing that can affect it is the axle height - i.e. what shims you run above and below the c-hub. Try to visualise what is happening to the height of the outer steering ball joint when you either change the caster angle, kick angle or axle height. It is this height change that is causing the bump steer. Once you visualise it, it is easier to figure out what needs to change in order to reduce / remove the bump steer. HTH |
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I've read a lot about people asking how to get less bumpsteer, but none with a good reason to why they want less. In theory more bumpsteer will give me less steering midcorner when the car rolls, right? In my head that means I can have an aggressive setup with a lot of reaction, but it will calm down and stabilize mid-corner. Or am I far off :-P ? I've run 2mm shims as per manual all year with 25/5, this gives me quite a significant amount of bumpsteer, doesn't it? *Don't have the car with me to check... :P* I guess the affects of adding and removing shims will be the next on my list to figure out... Just got a new indoor track, 150 tons of clay laid down in a warm, big building. Yay!! |
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My own opinion (for what its worth) is that bumpsteer can be a useful tuning aid but to what extent depends on the track surface. If the surface is smooth then adding bump out can as you say calm the car during corner roll but if your track is bumpy and you find your wheels moving up and down independently of each other (like most UK tracks), then any bump steer can make the car feel more vague along the straights. Old habits die hard - I tend to set my cars up with next to zero bump steer and then leave them - although I can understand the calming nature I've never given it a real go myself. As for your new track with 150 tons of dirt - you lucky sod. Make sure you make good use of it:thumbsup: |
I am running 5* with 25 kick and I have 1 mm spacer there is not a lot of bump steer now I would run it with no spacers but as a am running with no spacers in the front shox I dont won't the thred rubbing a holl in my front arms .
I was alwas under the inpreshion that bump steer was dad As on ruff trax I run on can make the car do all types of made things on the straight |
Do any of you no if the 6000mah saddle batteries fit under the standard shell on the losi 22 as I have my shell being painted and have no way of telling at the mo but as they look very hi
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Mid corner i dont seem to have enough steering- it is almost like the wheels are not managing full steering lock. Is this because of 'bumpsteer' and if so how do i get rid of it? The issue occurs with any servo i put in the car. So i know it isn't a problem there. The car is standard btw Cheers Adz |
Adz,
IMO bumpsteer is unlikely to be the cause of your issue. You can check however simply by looking down at the front wheel from above and seeing if it alters from toe-in to toe-out at all during suspension compression. if it does, then you have bump steer - although I still reckon that is unlikely to be highly noticeable on-track. From what you describe, it sounds as if you are not achieving full lock. The 22 can be quite sensitive to overall travel available on your Tx and indeed, I find the low profile servo is more fussy than a normal profile one. I have to set my travel limits on my radio at 150% travel - at 100% they would not achieve full lock. What Tx and what servo are you running? I reckon this issue is more likely to be a lack of overall travel setting on your Tx - but as I said, a low profile servo can exaggerate the problem further. |
Adam, I think you need to look at your camber link on the front, also, as you seen on Friday night, it can have a massive affect on camber change, which will also affect steering change.
I found the easiest thing to do was run tyres that gave more mid corner.... cut staggers. |
Hi Gnarly,
I think you might be on to something. Increased the steering rate to max (120%) and it seems to improve the turning circle. But that was only in the kitchen! I will give it try at the next club meeting and see how it goes. Cheers for the heads up! It may also be partly a steering link issue- I will try a few things if this fix doesn't improve it enough. Cheers Adz |
Anyone there anyone at EOS - Tomelilla (sweden) and have a good set up for
the losi on a slippery hard packed clay track? |
OneKiwi.. my jconcept setup is a perfect starter..
from petitrc. |
Was running my car on the weekend and it was grate apart from I need more steering and when ever I hit a jump it goes into a massive nose dive is there any way of sorting this out was running on carpet with mini pins on rear and mini spikes on the front
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Yes bin doing that dos nothing none of my 1/8th cars our my 4x4 1/10 bo it
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Hi all having a bit of a problem with my diff bilt it from new smooth as silk then one run and ruff as hel reybilt it and still ruff help
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Right, ive used the standard parts in my diff for a while and here is a few things I learnt early on – Ensure that you build the thrust race with plenty of the Black grease, and also cake the diff rings/balls in lots of white grease. The diff plates are flat out of the packet, so there is no need to sand them. I have found that if you sand the plate the performance of the diff isn’t as good and goes gritty/notchy faster. Because the diff rings aren’t ‘D’ shaped to lock the ring I place Tamiya Hard Damper grease (which is purple and very sticky) on the side of the diff ring that face’s the diff half. If you don’t have any Tamiya Hard damper grease try a bit of the diff lube on the back of the plate (something I used to do with the Tamiya Diff in the 416 to stop the plate spinning on the diff half). If you do have the Damper grease ensure that none of it get’s into the diff itself. Once built and installed in the car take time to run the diff in on the bench and tighten it up slowly till it doesn’t slip. Hopefully this will help :) |
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Soooo... Been testing rear motor a bit more. It can be a bit harder to drive, but damn. I'm faster with it, and in close fights it's so good to have the grip out of the turns.
This weekend the last outdoor race in the Norwegian cup was ran on high grip and shitf***hell bumpy astroturf. I had to make a few changes to make the car stable, but the biggest change was actually going from the HRC to the LRC rear block, from 3,5 degree toe to 3 degrees. It's seems like the HRC is better on high grip to stop the rear from rolling to much, but then again, on the bumps the LRC feels better and more forgiveable. Also, my mind might be tricking me, but it also seemed like the lesser toe helped free the rear up. It felt just as stable, if not more, and it felt like it carried more speed. The rear just felt more "with" me... If you catch my drift. Blablabla. Done. Going home. Bye for now:P |
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Thx |
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will be good to see the diff build vid
first time out with my losi 22 today at ledbury off road track . astro and grass very bumpy set up was stock apart from 2.5 antisquat 20w oil in rear 27.5 in front 25 kick 5 deg caster fastrax turf ripper all round medium inserts 6.5 brushless 19t pinion 6000mah sadle packs very tight fit but do fit it was awsome was running with 2 b4's all day when we swoped cars i then found that my car was a lot easier to drive fast.:D felt like a 4x4 to drive especially over jumps bad pionts went through 2 diffs dam thing coming loose and slipping :( inside rear will bearing fell to pieces :confused: but on the other hand the b4s i was practising with went through 3 rear shock towers :o i had a lot of big offs and the 22 took it , very strong car |
bad pionts
went through 2 diffs dam thing coming loose and slipping :( change the diff Screw and nut with a B4 one i had the same problem:thumbsup: |
will do is it a straight fit ?
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:thumbsup: |
just ordered one with a new diff and a new set of fastrax turf ripers from jespares :thumbsup:
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tic, tac, tic, tac video of building and adjusting of Mr Razer :)
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Just put the nut in the holder and drop a drop of CA glue in. It'll lock the nut in and you'll have no problems.
Done mine when i got the kit, first batch and never had a problem. :thumbsup: |
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Were is this diff vid ?
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diff/thrust balls junk replace with AE.
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But these partnumbers make your diff great! TLR2947 - Tungsten Carbide thrust balls TLR2951 - Tungsten Carbide diff balls MIP09151 - Mip hardened thrust washer |
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