Make sure the driveshaft isn't coming into contact with the locking nut inside the diff outdrive, sounds like it might not be all the way inside the outdrive

I counter sink the head of the droop screw in to the arm to give extra droop! even with a 0 degree block it has plenty of droop

The nut is pretty much all the way down, any further and the diff is too tight. I'm getting the same problem when the suspension is fully extended so the driveshaft is at the opposite end of the outdrive.

Acorn , check your CVDs...Invert right and left cvds , if the problem inverts too , it seems the pin of the cvd is in "the wrong hole"...
Sorry for my approximative english.

Hmmm, dumb question here but are the hubs on the right sides? very easy to put them the wrong way round as they look universal but there is a deffinate way they go on, i accidently put mine on the wrong way round when i built mine
Just a thought :)

Heres a few pics of mine showing fully compressed, fully extended & the diff outdrive with the nut on the left side of the car & fully in, i compressed the spring a few times with pliers before i put it in & gave the nut a light tap to allow it to go in properly

Thanks both. I'm reasonably confident its not an issue with the diff/outdrives, but never say never! I'll check the hubs and the position of the pin in the cvd tonight after work and let you know the outcome. Cheers for your help.

make sure drive shafts arent catching the slots in the diff outputs, ie to much travel in the shocks

your missing your rear bumper :confused:

Yep i sure am, can't see what difference it makes having it on to be honest

Where did you get those spacers that go in the arm holder in the rear? If they were in the kit then Im missing mine

Same with the other spacers

I got the spacers from DMS Racing, they came in a pack of 6, 2 x 1.5mm 2 x 2mm & 2 x 2.5mm, i think they were about £2 a pack

Sorted now thanks guys, issue was the pin in the cvd, so a nice simple fix. Thanks for your help.

Good to hear it is all sorted :D

Check the online manuel. The tree number in the original manual is wrong.

Take a look at Gainsy's middle picture.

I cannot understand the logic of this.

The rear arm holders two middle screw holes are threaded. How does that match up with to nuts thats locked in plastic?
And on top of that the two screws needed are 30mm counter sunk, but there's no CS where they go?
On top of that: when you look in the manual, both original and online, and check the exploded views the rear arm holder has different part numbers for RM or MM. But when i look the part numbers up on the durango site, only one of them is the arm holder, and it's the arm holder thats threaded.

This all make no sense to me.

I would think the armholder had no threading and that normal flat screws were to be used.

I think the 'arm holder' needs to be threaded for the rm but not for the mm but it isnt really a problem, i just held everything in place and wound the screw thro the whole lot,everything pulled down and tightend nicely

as for the c/s they is meant to be a small bumper on the rear that is c/s so the c/s head locate into it.

:thumbsup:

Well got my shell all sorted on it last night and so forth. I'll be honest I'm not loving it at present, so am tempted to head back to a Cougar SV. At least there are spares for it lol

Car was pretty good on track, just can't get to like it.

whats not to like it handels well its strong what more do you need

Bit confused about that mikey.. if it was good why change.. and only after a few goes with it. For me it looks great body is sleek and looks great. On of the best looking buggies out there imho. And if it drives half as good as it looks, I will be very happy.