Thanks for the suggestions. We are definitely running Schui mini pins (yellow) with medium foams and yellow stagger ribs and hard foams. Front rims are cut to remove all ribs and tires are mounted on outside edge but rim is still narrowed. Sort of like a 'muffin top'!! :thumbsup:

Here is my current setup:

56 piston, 30 wt, 3mm limiters, blue springs, bladders, 2-4mm rebound
outside or middle on tower, middle on arm
25 kick, 5 caster, -1.5 camber, 0 toe
2-A camber link (3mm inside, 0mm outside)
20mm ride height, trailing spindles, 1mm spacer top and bottom

55 piston, 27.5 or 30wt, 0mm limiters, red springs, bladders, 2-4mm rebound
outside tower, inside on arm
3.5 HRC block, -1 camber, 2 antisquat
2-B camber link (2mm inside, 1mm outside)
middle wheelbase, 1.5+ on hex

I recently removed all the weight from rear of gearbox and shock tower. I had between 14 and 28 grams there from the beginning and much prefer it with no weight now.

I'm running Xcelorin 3800mah 96mm lipo w/ approximately 30-40 grams under the battery and 7 or 14 grams on or near servo.

I have Tekin RS mounted on modified version of the rear bulkhead for the rear motor car. Cut off rear posts and use next set of posts to mount right next the mid motor chassis brace in front of motor. ESC is bascially over the battery. Savox 1258 servo, Spektrum micro 3500 rx, Novak capacitor to stop brown outs on rx, MRT PT on top of servo, Trinity based Duo2 13.5.

I TQ'd last Friday night club race and finished 3rd after horrendous start. My slipper was far too tight and car popped front end on start.

Had fast lap in the main so I was happy too!!!

Guys heading over to the oople event next weekend, can anyone offer any support with regards setups to give me a starting point for this race meeting??

Hi
My batley setup works well. Just use an lrc block instead of hrc block

If you need anymore help when there just ask

My other alias is Dj kirky so I'll be easy to find!!

Cheer steve which Tire/insert wise what are people using for this track
?

If its dry it will be yellow mini rear stagger ribs front! In the wet BB green rear with Schu Slim green fronts work well. My 22 is good round RHR so if you need any setup xcome and find me mate will be there from early friday morning.

Nick Gurnell

My latest setup, ran on high grip astro last night silverstone, car felt fantastic and my quickest lap was a 22.22 :thumbsup:

Front Suspension
Toe: 0'
Ride Height: wishbones slightly above level
Camber: 2'
Castor: 5'
Kick Angle: 25'
Oil: 32.5w
Piston: 5 hole 1.3 mm tapered
Spring: Black
Spindle Type: Kit
Shock Limiters: 2mm
Shock Location: 2-middle
Bump Steer: 0mm
Camber Link: 1 - 2mm washers on tower, 0mm washers on hub

Rear Suspension
Chassis Configuration: Mid
Toe: 4'
Anti Squat: 1'
Roll Center: LRC
Ride Height: Driveshafts Level
Camber: 3'
Wheel Base: Long
Oil: 32.5w
Piston: 5 hole 1.3mm tapered
Spring: Pink
Shock Limiters: 0mm
Camber Link: 1-B (2mm under hub and tower ball joints)
Shock Locations: 2-inside

rear losi weight @50g

Front tyres: yellow staggers
Rear Tyres: yellow mini pins

Speed passion LPF
Ocra 6.5t motor
Savox slim servo

Think one of the conclusions i've come to is...

It seems to work better with freshly built shocks. Doesn't matter if they feel fine off track, my results go down with a few races old shocks :confused:

Looks like more re-building and always makes sure i have shock oil in stock :D

i rebuild mine after every meeting

thanks Gnarly Old Dog,will the average joe notice a difference between the high and low

_______________
Revitol Reviews
Revitol Scar Cream

Even with rear motor I found it hard to get rear traction in this car. I run Dustins Reedy setup on our dusty claytrack and it's all over the place. I also tried the world setup from finland without success. Well, not really the whole setup since I don't have the wider hexes or the 3.5 deg toe in block. Just the stock ones...

Do you have any ideas how to get it better? I'm really considering going back to my old xxx.

22 rear motor
 

Hello all,

I also run the 22 on a low grip clay track and I ran into the
same problems, little grip in the rear.
I tried everything and it just did not want to grip the track.
As a final resort I bolted 100 grams of lead on the rear of the car.
I used the lead pieces with sticky tape on one side, 40 grams
under the shock tower and 30 grams on each side of the chassis.
Way better! I still haven't got it dialed but for me and my driving
style it seems like the way to go.

Greetings

Hans

http://martinsoerlie.com/wp-content/...artinbukta.pdf

Here's my latest setup.

I run fairly high grip astro, and I tested links, shock positions and springs yesterday. Ran inner links inside, and shocks in 2-middle front and 2-inside rear, with blue and yellow springs. Ended up with shorter links, dampers outside and green and white springs. Feels better in the bumps on my track, and moving the shocks out made it feel more precise.

Ok so i was just feeling retro.. and well i was to cheap to get a new saddle or a losi pack and went with the REAR MOTOR install. Wow is it ever sexy looking now that its all wired up.. and my stick pack has a home


So my question to EURO/overseas friends is... Who is running RM on carpet? And anyone have a baseline setup i should try for a very small indoor carpet track? We run 13.5 and shummi minipin rear with stagger cut fronts.

Hi Bob! :)

I ran the kit Rear engine Setup with Schumacher Stager Rib and Mini pin on an astro Track last Weekend. With that Setup my car was much to tight. The only other guy with a 22 was a local who had his car build up in mid configuration and his car was just about perfekt and took fastest lap times in every single rund out of 24 drivers.
He gave me his setup sheet wich i might upload later.

It's SOOOO much more right/cool/sexy with a rearmotor:P

I've usually ended up with setups close to the midsetups, but with one step harder rear springs, a 70 gram under lipo weight, and a few limiters in the shocks. The rearmotor has a tendency to be more prone to tractionrolling than the midmotor, other than that it's not too bad, but I've had a lot more success with the midmotor... Just feels safer.

I have attached my Silverstone set up using the FastTrax tyres ready for the F2 Finals. Car feels very stable on the high grip astro and can carry speed over the rough sections.

just out off curiosity what is the difference between the HRC block and the LRC block on a high grip astro track, what affect it has on the car ??? :)

does anyone have a good base setup for carpet indoor?

thanks,
Aran

My setup from the F2's at Silverstone, qualified 3rd, car was on for TQ pace most of the day just my thumbs let me down, finished 4th in finals

Front Suspension
Toe: 0'
Ride Height: wishbones slightly above level
Camber: 2'
Castor: 5'
Kick Angle: 25'
Oil: 35w losi oil
Piston: 5 hole 1.3 mm tapered
Spring: Black
Spindle Type: Kit
Shock Limiters: 2mm
Shock Location: 2-middle
Bump Steer: 0mm
Camber Link: 1 - 2mm washers on tower, 0mm washers on hub

Rear Suspension
Chassis Configuration: Mid
Toe: 3'
Anti Squat: 1'
Roll Center: LRC
Ride Height: Driveshafts Level
Camber: 3'
Wheel Base: Long
Oil: 30w losi oil
Piston: 5 hole 1.3mm tapered
Spring: Orange
Shock Limiters: 0mm
Camber Link: 1-B (2mm under hub and tower ball joints)
Shock Locations: 2-inside
.75 rear wheel hexes (thanks gnarly old dog :thumbsup: )

No weight at all

Had lipos rotated through 90' (makes a totally different car to drive)

Front tyres: yellow staggers
Rear Tyres: fastrax turf rippers

Speed passion LPF
Ocra 6.5t motor
Savox slim servo
SMC lipos

Hi All,

I would like to know if someone have a good set-up for the rear motor configuration on the astroturf indoor track.

Please give the impression on your set-up is also a good starting point :thumbsup:

thanks

I'm also looking for a new mid motor carpet setup to try out. I'm racing on high bite carpet with big jumps. Need something with more stability.

Here is what I typically use:

Front:

55 piston, 35 wt oil, green spring, 3mm limiters
middle on arm, outside on tower
-1.5 camber
5 degree caster, 25 degree kickup
camber link: 2-A (3mm spacer on inside ballstud, 1mm on outside ballstud)
0mm spacer on steering spindle ball stud
1mm spacer on top and 1mm spacer on bottom of spindle
trailing spindles
no toe in/out
21mm ride height

55 piston, 27.5 wt oil, red or orange spring, 2mm limiters
inside on arm, outside on tower
-1 camber
3.5 HRC block, 2 degree anti-squat
2-C camber link, 2mm spacer under outside ballstud, 1mm under inside ballstud
wheelbase medium or rear hubs 1mm forward
21 mm ride height

stagger ribs in front (hard insert), mini pins in rear w/med. insert
SC10 gear diff
13.5 motor with 25/76 gearing
Xcelorin 3800mah shorty lipo


I have considered modifying the side pods to allow me to run the battery sideways and move more weight to rear of car. This would also allow me to mount the ESC in front of the battery instead of on rear motor guard.

Bob your setup is similar to what we are running in ottawa but we are running hardest springs and 45weight oil... I only have 2 nites on the car so im far from happy with things yet. Mysterious rear spring cup ejections during my runs has set me back LOL

I ran mini pin fronts last race and liked the turnin but started to hook the rear end. just too much steering and had to dial back the dual rate.. Im going to try a LRC-3.5 block next time out and retry the stagger fronts that where pushing..

My carpet setup on friday was similar, but had the kit LRC block, 50g rear weight and the cream RC weight. Car was actually understeering quite a bit, but at least the rear end was gripping perfectly. Just need to give it a bit more steering now.

Will try the following this friday:

Front

Castor – 5 deg
Kick-up 25 deg
Shock oil – 40 wt
Piston – 54, 4 hole
Camber link – short, 2mm washer on inner ball stud
Shock location – Top middle, Bottom outer
Camber – 1 deg
Tyres – cut staggers

Camber link – 2B, 3mm washer on outer ball stud
Shock location – Top middle, Bottom inner
Toe - 4 deg LRC
Camber – 3 deg
1 deg anti-squat
Tyres – schu yellow mini pins, med inserts

Weight – 50g rear brass, Cream RC pivot weight, 10g in each side pod

I'll let you know how I get on.

Aran, are you coming to West Bridgford this friday?

someone out there who could help....:)

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j5...9-12221235.jpg

So I converted mine to mid motor last night, the battery is mounted as far back as possible, the esc as fsae back as possible, the weight kit again as far back as possible.... notice the trend? This car has an almost identical weight distribution as rear motor however the weight is almost totally in the wheelbase, my track is a medium grip clay 1/8th scale track. we'll see howe she drives!

Matt

front
0 toe in or out
1 deg camber
shock position on shock tower outer hole
shock position on wishbones outer hole
shock oil 30wt losi oil
standard 55 4 hole piston
silver spring
25 deg kick up shim the flat one
5 deg front hubs
camber rod position on chassis inner hole 1mm spacer
1 mm spacer on front hub
cut stagger with soft insert

rear
2 deg camber
shock position on tower middle
shock position on wishbone middle
shock oil 25 wt losi oil
standard 55 4 hole piston
pink spring
3.5 or 4 deg hrc toe block
2.5mm under gearbox anti squat shim
camber rod position on chassis outer hole 1mm spacer
camber rod position on hub outside furthest rear 1mm spacer
mini pin soft incert
optional 0.75mm wider rear hub
and i run a cougar wing as they are 10mm wider and alot stronger

middle
87gram under battery weight TDS make a great one affordable.
change the diff balls and thrust bearings for the ceramic
also get the associated diff screw and nut because they wont loosen up

Can someone post pics on how they reversed the rear arms? I can't seem to figure out how to mount the shocks :(

Looong screws and 4mm shims at least... :)

Please explain what the rear arms reversed means....:eh?:

thanks

check my thread - Mid Motor-Clay Track. i detailed how i did it and pics

Matt

pics are in my thread

yeah i used 6mm of shimming, long screws and had to dremel some of the shock tower and the shock standoff

Matt

new guy
 

hi all i am new on here and in fact new to of road racing but not to rc racing as i mostly race a rc10r5 .

my new losi 22

just running in the gear box
http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...er-evo/038.jpg

electrics in

http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...er-evo/039.jpg

http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...er-evo/040.jpg

not had a chance to run it yet as i am waiting for the saddle packs to tern up

kit is as stock but i have changed to
25 kick up
5 dergees caster
2.5 anti squat
and 20w oil in rear
stock in front
apart from that it is as the book tels you.

tyres are fastrax turf ripper with mid inserts

electrics are
lrp qc3 speedo
a old reedy ti 12t single with a 20t pinion
servo is a ko propo 2123 7.2v
and the batteries will be intellect 6000mah saddles

Loving the retro motor setup! :)

yes it will be up dated to a lrp sxx when funds allow and a x11 6.5 our a 8.5

My build
 

I've been bolting my 22 together.
I decided to take some pics and write some words on my blog. :)
For anyone who's interested they can be seen here.. http://pipskiracing.blogspot.com/201...ld-part-1.html

Mid vs. Rear... Again....
 

Yah...

I've been running mid-motor all year, apart from the worlds warmup and the worlds. It's been feeling really good, I won the Norwegian Nationals a month ago, and a Norwegian cup race two weeks ago, both races on astro. Rather different grip on two very different tracks, but everything worked out well, and I really feel the car has grown on me.

So, this weekend I was going back to the track where I won the nationals. A friend of mine was gonna borrow my car from the nationals, so out of curiosity I built a brand new rear motored 22. Another reason was that my local track for this winter will be an indoor clay track.

I had to work a bit on it, but it felt good, and after a days race I was faster, more consistent and more confident with my rear motored car. Whuuuuaaaaat??:woot::woot: I was of a strong belief that on such high grip astro, I would struggle being as quick and safe with a rear motor car.

I also got the chance to test my old midmotor after the race, and yes, the driving style was a bit different. With the rearmotor I could gun in more out of corners, control it more during jumping, and surprisingly be a bit more precise...

I still won't say one is better than the other, but I did not think I would be that fast with a rear motor. I'd still choose mid for extreme grip carpet I think, but this weekend was an epiphany. :)

It shall be said that I haven't tried the Speartooth or the AC conversion, but I like to keep things Losi for now. Working for the TLR-dealer in Norway, I'm kinda obliged to run it stock... ;)

Heres my setup. If someone tests it, please give me some feedback:)

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/se...2011091718.pdf

If you saw the first part and want to see the 2nd ... Here it is ... If you don't, well that's ok as well :p

http://pipskiracing.blogspot.com/201...ld-part-2.html

Has anyone bought the losi 22 rtr ? And if so what are they like as thinking of getting one for the missus . As I have the kit one and she wonts to run with us

This is the last part ... honest! :D

http://pipskiracing.blogspot.com/201...ld-part-3.html

Hi,
thanks for sharing your set-up.

I'll have the chance to try it in October on a carpet indoor track. Also I'll try it on an Astro track around November. I'd like to keep my 22 with rear configuration.

I'll keep you update on how it'll goes....

thanks.