hi mikescott

ypou don´t like the quality of the bmax2?
yesterday i sold my associated b4.2 because i need a car for carpet and don´t want spend so much money in a conversion kit for the b4.2.

so i need a new car. i was looking for yokomo or tlr.

Really? You must be the first person I've heard saying that. I've had all of these cars and apart from the RB6, the Yok quality is far superior. Fair enough, I've had to to replace the idlers with metal ones but apart from that the car is spot on.

I think it's unfair to compare it to the Kyosho considering the RB6 is about 60% more expensive.

I don't think you'll be disappointed.

First prototypes are shipped. I will test them this weekend.

Just a teaser :thumbsup::

http://teamyokomo.nl/images/samples/BMAX2_FRONT.jpg

Carbon rear-towers and chassis will be kept a secret until I receive them. (I've seen them though) I will make pictures when mounted.

If the quality is the same as the XB4 towers I will have a production batch soon.

Nice.....need 2 front towers and 1 for rear mm :thumbsup:

Bent

I'm trying to take this into account as yes I agree the RB6 is in a different target market. I owned one.

I know it's like many things in life, big cars, watches, quality shoes you can tell when you pay for a higher quality item.

I've got the gears on order along with a few other items.

Got a lot of side to side movement with the ball diff, which I'll be rechecking tonight..

My LRP shorty LIPOs are a very very tight fit too, don't just drop in. Again will check. Don't like the feel of the battery brace system too, so carbon upgrade being considered. However think I'll run the car first..

First run this weekend on the very high grip indoor track at Silverstone.

Still at this time feel the TLR22 2.0 would have been better, just hope the car proves me wrong.

+1!

I also had a full blinged up RB6 and the quality was of course very good. On the other hand I didn't like how it handled, not even with all the mods that are available (flat rear arms, rudebits lipo cradle etc...)

Sold the car and bought 2 MR's, 1 V2 for high grip and 1 "standard" car with plastic chassis for low grip.
The quality is just a bit below Kyosho but at least as good as a Tamiya and FAR better than associated.

I'm almost 1 lap quicker with the MR and way more consistent.

Just drive the car and you will be blown away how it handles. :thumbsup:

Quality of Yokomo is nice imo. I've driven X-Factory (and thus Associated) before and i find that Yokomo is a bit better. Especially with the arms, they are soooo sloppy on the Asso.

Gears are the only downside on the B-Max2 imo, but they are replaced (as an option though) with Alu versions - even though I still drive the standard ones - :D

MR2 is top quality for me!
I had an asso before, except for the slop, i remember every anodized bit stripping colors after a pack! Especially those shock standoffs went from blue to silver just by assemblying the car.
I have raced the car in really harsh dirt tracks and the plastic chassis has only a few scratches without a protecting film.
I replaced my lower arms yesterday just to have fresh ones, cause the stock ones wouldn't want to break for any reason!
The only part i have broken quite a lot of times is the transparent washer under the front hubs.
Yet i have seen a lot of rb6 breakages without believing it is an inferior quality car.

Hi Mikey,

I have run a Bmax now for about 4 months. I have found the handling much better than my SV2.

The ball diff does have side to side play in it. I assume it's so a gear diff can be used if the gear diff is wider, I don't know that though. I shimmed it out.

I am also using shorties, Orion ones and they are a snug fit, doesn't seem to be an issue, maybe the LRP ones are marginally larger.

The car has good grip with the plastic brace, but I found that I would forget to turn the retainers to lock the brace down. I did fit the carbon upgrade, mainly so I had to turn the blue thumb screws down. It does make the car stiffer so better for high grip surfaces.

Keep with the car, it seems to work for me.

The metal chassis and carbon brace will be great upgrades if your running on high grip surfaces like Silverstone...chassis in particular!

I'm still using the plastic idlers and have seen no sign of any trouble with mine, so have no thoughts of going to the ali idlers at all at this point!

Either way, hopefully you'll be as impressed with it as I was...I'm still loving it! Overall preferring it to the AE's and xfactory's I ran before.

100% agree with Andy!! Enjoy the car :thumbsup:

Mine is the nicest car I've built, everything just fell together. Just run the car as STD to try it first mikey. It's so smooth running, quiet and consistent to drive. I love it! No alloy chassis on yet either, that and the idler gears are sitting here waiting to go on.:thumbsup:
Good luck with it, let us know how it goes

That's saying something too because you've had them all griff :p

Are you weakening yet Dan? Another go on mine on Sunday, and now trawling the Yoke section on here ;)

I'm loving mine, so consistent and never bites you back when trying too hard. It felt a little on the numb side with the plastic chassis and battery brace. I put the red springs on the front with the 2 x1.6mm pistons which stopped the front collapsing when cornering hard. I put the carbon battery brace on and it was a lot sharper. I've just bought the alloy chassis but haven't ran it yet but stiffening the chassis just seems to make it better without affecting the balance.

One thing which amazes me is the amount of traction it has compared to other cars. It always makes me smile.

As for quality it is far superior to TD and Associated. People complain about idler gears but the way to stop it is simlpe......RTFM. Don't go beyond the slipper setting in the manual otherwise it won't work and all the shock is transferred to the gearbox.

I can't wait until I get the new BMAX4 if this car is is anything to go by. :thumbsup:

Indoor season has started for me. I took the B-Max2 MR with me and I had (so) much traction :drool:, was really fast in corners. The car was very decent. Last year I've only driven 4WD over at the indoor track, but 2WD got me hooked again. Of course, when the B-Max4 III is here I will take it to the track as well.

Drove DBoots Nanybyte in the rear and cut-stagger in front, great combination. I could turn in (and keep the pace :thumbsup:) faster than most Mid-motor 2WD's on the track yesterday. They changed the layout compared to last year, so first couple of heats everything was new, but when time processed I was making less mistakes. I also was playing around with weight near the front and I still need to add some more. It makes a huge difference on the indoor track.

Next time I will test the carbon parts. Prior to testing, pictures will be here of course.

I will post my yesterday used setup tonight.

This is exactly why im trawling the section! Whenever I've drove yours Andy you can push the car without it biting you in the ass! I think I'll try a longer chassis, no anti-squat and maybe dial in some bumpsteer on my DEX210 first but then we'll see :p

Anyone know what size the wheel pins are on the rear as I'm looking at ordering some solid ones instead.

Also ordered the hex conversion parts as indicated on Petitrc so will so how Kyosho rear wheels fit.

I really hope a compatible Pro-line wheel hex conversion is in the works.

You need to replace the kit rear spacer with the older type cone spacer to make the off-set work. Can send an image later if you like.

Dave

This part number Yokomo part #bm-011s ?

Yes a pic would be great please. I have circa 20 rear Kyosho wheels, 4 sets ok AKA wheel.

Haven't done the conversion on the front yet. I've heard there is an official hex option coming from yokomo

1.6 mm mate

Cheers Neil

Typical that I went to order the carbon battery holder today and it's now out of stock!

So does everyone with a gear diff use both spacers behind the big outdrive gears or just the larger diameter washer?

My gear diff is remarkably tight...

I don't really want to take it apart (it's in car) but I remember I removed the smaller very thin thin washer in there.

Does anyone play with gear box height around here? It was a pretty common tuning option for the X6 when I drove it.

I can't go racing this weekend (commitments :thumbdown:), but I'll be playing around with it next Wednesday, in combination with the carbon parts of course :p

Sack off the 210 it's like comparing night and day. The deals you can get on the bmax2 is brilliant at the moment.

having moved from a Dex210 to a Bmax2
can honestly say you wont be dissapointed with the yokomo.

the build and parts quality is better than the 210 and the manual is like reading instructions put together by somebody who wants you to build they're kit to the best standards, no steps missing, no incorrect sections and everything is very easy to understand. and all this even with english as the third choice language!!

Yep, +1,5mm for more drive :thumbsup:

I used 2.0mm the most to be honest. But I'll try 1.5 ;)

More drive?

no need to raise the gearbox, just put +/- 50gr under the motor with 1° AS. (65% rear weight bias)
My car wheelies on wet astro :D

Is that in MM or RM

In MM.

I'm driving with 30gr weight on motor. My car did wheelies too, loosened the slipper clutch a little bit. Front is too light now :lol:

You should try to put the weight under the motor, you CG will be much lower like this.

With all those extra weights throughout the car, I wonder who'll be the first to try a stainless steel chassis. :confused:

We already run a stainless steel chassis with a 1/16th 2WD Micro, the Phat Bodies 'Chunk' :)

http://www.uk-microrc.co.uk/forum/lo...hp?t18166.html
http://i.imgur.com/W0WQj.jpg

I don't carry that much weight. 20gram in front and 30gram on the motor. When I was driving the X-Factory X6 i was carrying lot more :D

I've no idea why anyone needs to add all this weight to the car? My guess is they have used the heavy 50g brass bulkhead, which simply isn't needed for the MM car, then trying to balance it back with weight to the rear?
The heavy brass weight is for the MR car, not for MM.

I added 15g to the front of mine which I removed when I bought the ally upgrades and optional brass 11g bulkhead nose weight. I run stagger ribs, but you can run cut staggers if you want more front end. The car grips like mad, but has loads of steering when you want it.

I also only have the alu front options + the 11gr in the nose.
No need (I even think the car will push) for a heavy front brass bulkhead.
My alu chassis car is at 1540gr with a shorty and around 64% rear bias.
Mega drive and steering, very stable and forgiving. :D

+1; I've got 2 x 10g in front of the servo and occassionally put in 20g in front of the gear box when running rear motor.
As for the gear box height, I used to raise it by 2 mm in the original B-Max2, but did not try it in the MR as I never struggled with forward bite. Last season I had problems with a loose rear end, mainly because I never had time to properly set-up the car for dirt due to other commitments or bad weather. When I made some changes prior to the last leg of our season finale, it was much better, though, and I was happy to see that my driving was not that bad at all. I dare not imagine what could have been possible under different circumstances... :p