What is the kit/stock springs? Blue I know just dark or light front and rear.

TD330137 front , dk blue

TD33151 rear, light blue

First raceday yest with the 210. No issues with kit diff or ball cups. :thumbsup:
Did break a rear tower, but I think I would have broke one anyway with a diff buggy the way it landed.

So got the new motor today... nice and shiny yah.
LRP x12 8.5 with the standard spur 87T what pinion should I run for a tight carpet track?

Manual said in a 2wd the ratio should be 8.5.1
Whats this and how do I work it out?
I have seen this explained before but cant remember where I saw it.

A 26t pinion will give you 8.7 FDR and I believe that is the largest pinion you can fit with the 87t spur.

I have attached a screen-shot of a spreadsheet I'm using and the spreadsheet (zip'ed). Please use as you like.

PS! looking forward to try out the slick tires I ordered from you yesterday :)

Final Drive Ratio = Spur/Pinion * Internal Drive Ratio
E.g 87/26*2.6 = 8.7 FDR. Not far off your 8.5.

I've run an 8.5 on a 26 pinion and found it about right on a tight carpet track. However, yesterday I ran a 9.5 with 27 pinion and this was as smooth as silk. To get the pinion to fit I had to lengthen the motor plate slots a few mm. Now the motor is just touching the chassis, so a 27T is about the max you'll get into a 210, with standard Spur.

thanks, thats larger than what I have been using.. might be why I get quite high temps, the motor is spinning too fast.

ronsand I have shipped your slicks BTW

where do you get the 2.6 from in that equation? spur divided by 10?

2.6 is the internal ratio of the 210.

I ran a 10.5 motor over the weekend geared with a 23 pinion ! BUT it was outdoors and I had my speedo set up for it. Gearing will always depend on your driving style/setup as well as the track :)

2.6 is the internal gear ratio for the DEX210 (layshaft gears + diff-gear)

Diffs
 

A question regarding the diffs. I've tried the usual method of fully tightening and then backing off 1/8th of a turn and I find my diffs still to be very tight. Another 1/3 turn seems about right, ie. backing off around a half-turn from fully tight. Do others experience this and is it possibly because of the larger diff balls (3mm compared to 2.5 on the Losi and AE machines) delivering a greater surface area and increased friction?

I ran mine for the first time yesterday with no issues what so ever. However i did notice you can overtighten the rear wheels which wouldnt do the diff any favours :lol:

That's what I noticed as well.
If you tighten the rear wheels to much, some binding will occur.
I guess this can be cured simply with a spacer between the inner and outer ball bearing in the hubs - as found on other cars...

A traditional crush spacer will not work due to the inner bearing size, but.....

Place a 5x6x.2mm shim on the axle before installing in the hub.

There is a step in the axle, the face of that step meets up with the inner edge of the outer hub bearing.

Placing a small shim on the axle before that step will take the side load off the outer hub bearing making it last much longer, with no bind.

.2mm was plenty on my car to crank the wheels down with no binding, but experiment to see what you need.

Dayton

great info!
thx

has anyone been running the 210 without the droop screws on the rear? fully tightened doesnt give much

Chris,
I run rm3 on a medium grip tack.
Ran the first weekend with out them, Started the day saturday with them in.
After 2 packs I took them off.

Dayton

I put them in the wrong way when I built the car (from the top instead of the bottom). But without the ends sticking out of the arms, so full droop. The car kept throwing it's ass up on the big jumps. And not a little bit. I just noticed I put them in wrong today, so I haven't ran the car since, but I think it was because of the droop screws.

Only ran the car on sunday, received it last wednesday. It handles great though. Had tons of grip and as much steering as you like.

Out of interest what antisquat are you running? It seems a lack of rear droop might well be related to running the 0 degree block...

im running the 3 degree blocks

Finally finished building my 210, looks a cracking car and looking forward to getting out on the track. One issue I discovered last night is the right rear wheel is unable to fully rotate when the suspension is at full compression and full extension. When fully compressed the wheel rotation is forcing the suspension back down and vice versa.

I'm guessing its something simple, but my tired eyes and brain couldn't spot anything obvious. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.