right got car all built up and elecs soldered up but..... i cant get full lock to the right because the ball cup on the servo arm side hits the top of the servo, using a low profile savox with the kit servo arm, what can i do to get full lock again as dont want to have to file down servo casing. cheers

hi i,m using the same servo
just cut off a little bit of ballcup
works great

got it sorted with schumacher ball and cullcups :-)

Weight, where and when ?
 

As title what weight are people using, TLR front and rear weight kits, rudebits weights how much are you running and under what conditions ?

What's this front weight kit like? not heard about that one till now.

I've only ran mine for one race on Sunday when the reciever in my Durango died, the car had no extra weight at all, in fact the car was a good chunk underweight, still drove really nicely, was keeping up with the 4wds in the race:thumbsup:

Only just got the rear weight kit, so will give that a go next time.

The 20 degree brass kick shim is 16 g heavier than stock composite part

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...048-25016g.jpg


The 25 degree brass kick shim is 8.8 g heavier than the stock composite part

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...1049-2508g.jpg

I had the same issue. I bumped down to only .5mm of servo spacers and the issue was fixed for me.

were are these from:wub

Reg, they are on the TLR website under hopup's ;)

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ickAccessories

Hit ALL on hopup's ;)

as guys using using the savox 1251 ( spektrum 6040) will also find ball cup rubs on servo case at full lock, just sand the top of the ball cup on a flat surface until it clears, was about 1.5mm on my car.
Also dont fit servo horn central but one spline to right to correct offset on servo.

the brass kick up plates are nice,but does it realy need any weight in the front as it will turn up its arse if you want it to with out them:thumbsup:

Just another tuning aid REG don't forget mid or rear mounted motor.

can someone pass on the partnumber of the HRC-block?
I guess I must be missing something but could not find it yet, nor find it in a shop

allrighty :) thx
So there is no special plate or block, it's about the Toe and anti-squat-blocks.

But then, can't you obtain the same results with the LRC-parts with extra shims to shim it up?????

Thats what I was thinking , could be wrong though :blush:

for the HRC you need the toe plates & the antisquat shim set.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=TLR2045
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=TLR2979
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=TLR2980
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=TLR2981
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=TLR2982
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=TLR2983

the antisquat shim set is more critical for the mid car as the gearbox is designed to sit into the front toe plate.

ive just fitted the 4.0 HRC rear block, does this mean I need the antisquat shim set to make this change worthwhile? :confused:

Yes you need the HRC AS Kit parts number TLR2045

Changing the to HRC means your changing the rear block hight and you need to compensate to get the correct AS angle for this change.

Tony

Cheers Tony, I'll get one ordered. :thumbsup: