If you meant the shock towers don't bother - cheddar cheese is stronger!

Get the Atomic Carbon ones instead http://atomic-carbon.gforceimages.net/cfp.html

Cheers for the heads up m8, ill check out those atomic ones, they look the dogz........ :D

Another heads up if you're thinking of purchasing.

The AC towers are thinner then the stock towers so you'll need to use longer screws and some spacers to keep the dampers upright.

You'll also need different ball connectors with a nut on the back cause you can't screw them directly into the carbon.

I'd suggest using these http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53969

actually instead of longer ball studs you should just use the ball studs that let you add the screw through them so you can get the length just right...such as these....http://cgi.ebay.com/3Racing-4-8MM-HE...item27b159d861

The only reason I suggest those is because you will have the rest of the threading sticking out the front of your tower if you get the longer ball studs Carno suggested. With these though you get the right length screw and the ball stud acts like the nut and it looks cleaner. ;)

here are some pics...

More pics...

Hello To All
 

Great thread on the Durga,

Learnt a lot from it for my durga build, my first serious rc car, I normally fly rc helicopters.

Just about to start work on masking and painting the body and tail.

Lovely design, very enjoyable build, tapped just about every hole! Went for a few upgrades, TRF DAMPERS (still to fit), AC rear shock tower (also still to fit), ally suspension mounts, MKS servo for steering (installed after pics taken) with metal mounts and a clutch slipper (still to fit) for when I go brushess. Need to get 501X metal diff joints still tho.

Cant wait to get down my local club for my first taste of racing, looks like a whole lot of fun!

Anyways just wanted to say hello. :thumbsup:

Body Work Turned Out Well
 

Just the decals to go!

Looking Good !!
 

:thumbsup:

Hi all, new to the forums

Can anyone advise how the paint job for the DB01 featured on the review by Mr Oople was done? Would it have been an airbrush job or could it have been done purely by spray cans for R/C bodies. Im hoping to follow the same colour scheme for another body but don't want to venture into airbrushing due to costs!

Thanks peeps!

Need help lipo for db01
 

Hi all. im thinking of nano tech lipo but their dimensions are152x49x17mm... very long. wondering if someone could measure up the battery compartment in their db01 and tell me the max dimension of lipo i can fit please.

thanks all.

Can't get to my DB01 - it's buried and I've not seen it for years - but a "standard" brick pack lipo fits no problem but you do need to unscrew the battery posts quite a bit if it's a tall lipo pack.

If this is the battery you are looking at http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking...Lipo_Pack.html then it won't fit in any buggy as it's not designed for normal cars. It's a soft pack so you would not be allowed to race anywhere with it either.

If you go here http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking...0&currentPage= you will find plenty of hard case packs that are all designed around the industry standard dimensions so all will drop straight into any modern buggy.

You need to get either a DB01R or DB01RR chassis as they are made for lipo use compared the standard ridge and valleys of the side by side Nimh packs.

Or and if they are still available, you can use Team Orion "stick pack" Lipo instead.

Hi all,

Recommendations of angle e.g 0 deg , 0.5 and 1.0 for rear uprights for Db01 for dirt or clay. Looking at the TRF 201x alloy block.

Cheers

the DB01 comes with 3 deg already from the rear pivot pin braces.