Hmm, this was kinda funny.

Today I went to my club's brand spanking new astro track, for a little warmup before I leave for the worlds warmup on Thursday. The track hasn't opened yet, but when everybody celebrates our national day and leaves me with a key, I can't just sit at home or go get drunk now, can I?

So, I went with my new Mid 22, mounted with the 3.5 HRC block, TLR weights, TSD under-lipo weight, and so on. Not far off Gnarly's setup sheet.

I also brought my rear motor, with a homemade weight made from a plaque from some car race... This weighed in at only 130 g(!!!!) :)

The midmotor car felt okay, but couldn't quite get fast enough out of the corners, and it also felt unprecise and a bit dead in it's movements. It shall be said that I didn't change anything on the setup, but that was mostly down to the fact that I had no miracle ideas, the balance was good.

The rearmotored car? Brilliant, more reactive, jumped better, felt more precise, but stilled pulled like a midmotor through turns probably due to the weight.

So here's my question: Is it just that I'm a rearmotor kind of guy? Is it just that mid or rear doesn't matter, only enough weight and the right balance?

Might also be the track though, the grip is good, but theres lots of rubber and sand still coming out, and the cars float a bit on top.

What I think is funny is that this happens everytime I try midmotor. I just never feel at home:P

ive run mine rear motor config std set up at my local track (broxtowe) astro surface weather was dry and car went well.will stick with rear motor config and see how it goes as my lap times improve.not sure how it will go in the wet.im no expert this is my first off road buggy so will be interesting to see how the car handles compared with other 22 cars with mid mount config through out the year at the track

Hi Razer, where did you put the weight in your rear mounted car?

Under the lipo. Similar size like Telboys TSD weight, just a tad shorter so it fits in the rear motor car. It hits the battery mount posts in the rear and follows the slot in the chassis forwards. It's one helluva heavy piece, and I don't think it puts the weight balance a lot forward, it just makes it a lot heavier. Haven't measured it though.

There's no doubt in my mind that the 2 configurations drive differently and I have also seen with other cars that some people can't initially make the transition from one to the other.

I only got a chance to drive the 22 in rear configuration once or twice during our testing but it felt super sweet to me - more stable and less edgy than a B4 but beautifully precise at the same time. It's on my list of things to do to go back and run the rear car a bit more because it felt so good.
That said - I am quicker with my mid car overall at the moment and still developing my understanding of that car.

The UK is largely dominated by mid cars these days but I do still believe the rear car at the right track and in the right hands is equally as quick. I personally think the choice of mid or rear has more to do with the nature of the corners than it has with the actual surface - if the track has corners where you need to maintain high speed with subtle direction change then the mid car has it, but if the track has many low speed pivot type hairpins, then it plays more into the hands of the rear car.

The other issue to consider is that because the 2 configurations drive so differently, it can become difficult when driving and racing wheel to wheel with each type - a mid car can be driven more aggressively than a rear car and will tend to carve a tighter line on exit. It can make for some interesting races :thumbsup:

Just my thoughts:eh?:

Hi all,

Was reading somewhere on here that most people are making up there own anti-roll bars as there is none available from TLR....

But there is.... deep in the Losi XX spares box I found the XX kit -

LOSA-4140

It fits the TLR 22 perfectly and gives you a choice of thick and thin bars.
It mounts using the two screws that hold the rear of the rear shock tower down. Only downside is that the cups and ballstuds aren't metric - but this doesn't really matter- still works fine.

Legacy, can you post a pic fella ;)

Yeah, I'll get a photo up tonight

We're working on a rear anti roll bar solution at the moment. CAD drawings are done, we're just waiting on a few prices to come back before we can finalise the costs.

CAD image is below. Kit will come with a 3.00mm carbon fibre shock tower, 6061-T6 aluminium mount, ARB holders, 3 anti roll bars (not sure what thicknesses yet, but it will probably be 1.2, 1.4 & 1.6mm) and all screws, washers and fixings.

The kit will fit both mid and rear motor configurations using the same parts.

We need to gauge interest before getting any of these put together, so any comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

http://www.akularacing.co.uk/wp-cont...r-Assembly.jpg

Maybe 4mm carbon would be a better option, for my crashing anyway

LOSA-4140 Anti roll bar kit fitted to TLR22

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_X...2018.09.06.jpg

Legacy, nice one fella :thumbsup::thumbsup:

has anyone found any for sale?

Not yet ! They were already rare :woot:

LOSA4257 would do the trick as well if you make new bars out of wire, but are you guys finding sway bars of help? no one local runs them or have mensioned anything about running them.

Just had one of the front inner hinge pin break on me, nothing else, just noticed that the right front hinge pin had slided a bit out behind, and then when i took it out, it noticed it had broke in the middle, about where the set screw holds it.

Anyone else had this?

Kecky off of here has had 1 go aswell

Setup below, this is how I ran it indoors, have tried it outdoors was great, just think it needs a bit more weight in it

Front Suspension
Toe: 0'
Ride Height: wishbones slightly above level
Camber: 2'
Castor: 10'
Kick Angle: 20'
Oil: 27.5w Losi (going to try 30w Losi oil)
Piston: 6 hole 1.3mm tapered
Spring: Green
Spindle Type: Kit
Shock Limiters: 2mm
Shock Location: 2-middle
Bump Steer: 0mm
Camber Link: 1 - 2mm washers on tower, 0mm washers on hub

Rear Suspension
Chassis Configuration: Mid
Toe: 4'
Anti Squat: 1'
Roll Center: HRC
Ride Height: Driveshafts Level
Camber: 3'
Wheel Base: Long
Oil: 32.5w Losi (going to try 35w Losi and red spring)
Piston: 6 hole 1.3mm tapered
Spring: Orange
Shock Limiters: 0mm
Camber Link: 1-B (2mm under hub and tower ball joints)
Shock Locations: 2-inside

62g under 96mm lipo (which is about the same as a pack of saddles) so effectivley no extra weight.

Front tyres: yellow staggers
Rear Tyres: yellow mini pins (medium insert)

Speed passion LPF
Ocra 5.5t motor
Savox slim servo

@paul what kind of surface is that setup for?

Have ran it on carpet/wood at RC arena. Carpet/Tarmac at moto arena and Astros turf at torch and stotfold (with spikes instead of pins)

Setup from mid south regional yesterday indoors on carpet/slippy floor, qualified 4th but had nightmare finals, was the highest placed losi 22 :woot:

Front Suspension
Toe: 0'
Ride Height: wishbones slightly above level
Camber: 2'
Castor: 10'
Kick Angle: 20'
Oil: 32.5w
Piston: 6 hole 1.3mm tapered
Spring: Green
Spindle Type: Kit
Shock Limiters: 2mm
Shock Location: 2-middle
Bump Steer: 0mm
Camber Link: 1 - 1mm washers on tower, 0mm washers on hub

Rear Suspension
Chassis Configuration: Mid
Toe: 4'
Anti Squat: 1'
Roll Center: HRC
Ride Height: Driveshafts Level
Camber: 3'
Wheel Base: Long
Oil: 32.5w
Piston: 6 hole 1.3mm tapered
Spring: Orange
Shock Limiters: 0mm
Camber Link: 1-B (2mm under hub and tower ball joints)
Shock Locations: 2-inside

62g under 96mm lipo (which is about the same as a pack of saddles) so effectivley no extra weight.

Front tyres: yellow staggers
Rear Tyres: yellow mini pins (medium insert)

Speed passion LPF
Ocra 6.5t motor
Savox slim servo

Thanks for that Paul :thumbsup:

I have been trying 3 hole pistons in the 22 over the last couple of weeks! I’m still experimenting with hole size but am finding the car to be a more stable and a little easier to drive. I’m currently running 1.45mm 3 hole front and 1.55mm 3 hole rears but am going to try a slightly larger hole this week for a little less pack.

Ran the car this weekend at Grantham A1 racing new Astro track and car felt real easy to drive over a 5min race but could still put in very fast lap times. The track is bumpy with several different Astros giving a change in grip level from high to low grip


My set up is listed below

Front
37.5W Losi oil
3 hole 1.45mm taper piston
Black spring
Shock position middle on arm 2 on tower
2mm limiter fitted
Camber link position 2
1mm under inner ball stud 2mm on outer ball stud
Kick angle 25 degrees
Caster 3 Degrees
Camber -.5 deg
Ride height 21mm
Spindle trailing
2mm spacer moved to front of caster block

Rear
32.5w Losi Oil
3 hole 1.55mm taper piston
Pink springs (yellow gave a little more side bite but pink was faster if you was smooth with it)
Shock position inside on arm 2 on tower
Camber link B with 1mm spacer 2 with 2mm spacer
4 degree HRC
1 Degree anti squat
Medium short wheel base
HB 7” V wing
Camber -2
Ride height 21mm
Losi 96mm stubby Lipo
No rear weight
Short Lipo kit with all small weight moved to front 156g total

Rear tyres Yellow mini spike 2
MRO Extra wide rear inserts
Yellow staged rib front Dremeled
No insert
LRP x12 7.5
24/76 gearing

Bumpsteer, i had a good set up at the last regional but just needed to up the shock oil slightly which ive now done.

Question bumpsteer.

Just rebuilt it i run 5deg caster with flat plate, should i run 2 mm bumpsteer or not?

I was and when compressed i get the wheel moving what eva thats called, without 2mm spacer out its linear all the way up what does the difference give me?

Russ

If the wheel toes out during bump it means the steering goes away through the corner .... kinda makes it less aggressive ...

If there is no bump steer then at least the "feel" of the steering is the same throughout the corner ....

sweet, thatl be y mine did fell really good round the bends then, be interesting to see how it goes with no bumpsteer

I worked with the bump steer settings on Thursday night and I can confirm that adding spacers does for sure add bump out when front end is compressed and definitely makes the car more stable through the corner and when landing bigger jumps.

I also tried different axle heights and settled on a mid setting with 1mm on top and bottom. This is slightly higher setting than stock to gain some steering on exit. However any axle height changes will also affect the bump steer setting.

Set up today from the mid south regional at herts nitro club astro track, qualified 2nd with a pretty competitive field was .5 sec of setting TQ and think was the only person to get into the 24 sec lap times :thumbsup:

Front Suspension
Toe: 0'
Ride Height: wishbones slightly above level
Camber: 2'
Castor: 10'
Kick Angle: 20'
Oil: 32.5w
Piston: 6 hole 1.3mm tapered
Spring: Green
Spindle Type: Kit
Shock Limiters: 2mm
Shock Location: 2-middle
Bump Steer: 0mm
Camber Link: 1 - 2mm washers on tower, 0mm washers on hub

Rear Suspension
Chassis Configuration: Mid
Toe: 3'
Anti Squat: 1'
Roll Center: LRC
Ride Height: Driveshafts Level
Camber: 3'
Wheel Base: Long
Oil: 32.5w
Piston: 6 hole 1.3mm tapered
Spring: Orange
Shock Limiters: 0mm
Camber Link: 1-B (2mm under hub and tower ball joints)
Shock Locations: 2-inside

62g under 96mm lipo and rear losi weight

Front tyres: yellow staggers
Rear Tyres: yellow mini pins YES MINI PINS ON ASTRO (medium insert)

Speed passion LPF
Ocra 6.5t motor
Savox slim servo

My Nordics setup:) Weirdest track ever, short haired astro with grip that I don't even think can be compared to uncut minipins on carpet... Had two rows left on front pins, but had to go uncut stagger, mins and cuts were too much:o

Qualified fourth, ended up 6th, fastest lap in the last two finals. Without some of the dirty driving I think the podium was very much within reach, but shit happens:)

Some amazingly quick locals with the 22, hope they post some setups as well!

Also, here's a cool pic from practice, before it got converted to midmotor during the night...
http://racegallery.dk/gallery113/images/DSC_0055.JPG

Hello,

I am quite lost with kick angle and caster. Is there a difference in using
- 20° kick angle + 10° caster block
- 25° kick angle + 5° caster block

Sorry if it has been already explained, I did not find an answer by searching :(

The kick up has to be added to total caster, if you use the 25 shim + the std kit 10degree caster blocks you are running a total of 35, most would consider that a bit high so most run (including me) run the 20 degree shim with std blocks
But if you start to play with the optional caster blocks ( if you can get hold of some of them:wub) you can start to shuffle things about to sute you, as every one likes there car diffrent.

have a hunt about as I think there is a thred writen by the old dog about this:thumbsup:

I think Martyn has explained it pretty good above.:)
The Kick Angle (aka the rake) helps to resist weight transfer during cornering which I have found helps to smooth the corner transition out of the bend.
If you can't get hold of the 5 deg blocks currently, try the 3 degree ones - it's worth playing with and (IMO) the 25 degree kick angle does make the car feel smoother throughout the entire turn but, as RacingDwarf has pointed out, 25 + 10 deg can make the car feel a bit too unbalanced.
It seems that around 30deg caster in total is about right - I prefer 25 deg rake + 5 deg caster block as opposed to the 20 + 10. If / When I break my 5 deg blocks, I'll go to the 3 degree before I go back to 20 + 10.

@RacingDwarf - Dave - can you post your rear motor set up please? I hear its ace :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Thanks for your answers ! I had a chance to get a 2nd 22 for spare, that came with 0 et 3 caster blocks, I have put the 3 ones with 25 kick angle shim, I really prefer the car like this on an astro track.

Thanks again guys :)

Built up a 22 front shocks with 2x56 and 2x55 holes and green springs is it normal for it to be quite stiff or does the 22 like the hard front.

It helps to round the piston edges a touch ;) but I'm happy with 2 x 55 + 2 x 56 holes in the front of my mid car with 30wt and green springs.

Best thing is to try it and make the call yourself - maybe ready yourself a set of 4 x 55 hole pistons and try the 2 types back to back. It's all a case of trial and error to get to something that suits your driving style and the track(s) you race at.

whats the best way to round the edges and how much.

Put them carefully on a mandrel in a dremel and just touch the upper and lower edges with some 600 grit wet n dry. Be careful not to reduce the overall diameter - you're aiming to just chamfer / radius the square edges.

If you have an old Losi piston - use that as a visual guide to determine what the radius should look like.

IMO it just helps the small bump performance and helps make the shock a little more active on our types of track.

Has anyone tried a hydra drive on there 22. I thought maybe this would be good to increase rear end traction under acceleration

id love to get hold of a hydra drive to try ... if anyone has one up for grabs pm me....