Well, I conceded and modified it, I cut the central drivetrain cover so you don't have to keep removing it to change the pinion or motor.

Already!!!
Can you get some pics? Sounds like a good move to prevent future faffin..
Have you driven it in anger yet?

going to give it bash on the weekend, just got to knock up a cap for the spektrum receiver and set the esc up.

Hi guys,
Fantastic forum on de Durga.... just wondering, I currently have a TRF501x and is it possible to use the Durga chassis ( and closed drive train) with all the TRF501x parts?
How easy is this modification? Just take out the trf501x upper and lower deck and replace by the plastic Druga chassis.

In Belgium we will be allowed to use Lipo in hard cases and as I didnot found any saddle pack like this, the Durga chassis would be a solution, except I think to make it fully competitive (vs. the TRF501x) we need to full trf501x options.....

Your thoughts?/ Input
Trf14:confused:

TRF14,

All of the suspension from the 501 will fit straight on, and all of the internal drivetrain components will as well - but that's all.

You can't use the 501 alloy bulkheads, upper arm mounts, suspension mounts, or shock towers on the Durga.

I am having real problems sourcing some 501x dampers, want to find an asian seller to keep the costs down, can anyone help please......

May give mine a run out tomorrow with a 19t checkpoint in it.Dont really fancy putting my brushless kit in until my slipper arrives.
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...o/PC150081.jpg

Quick pic of mine before it gets wrecked at the Teesside regional tomorrow...

http://www.sosidge.com/wp-content/up...2/img_0154.jpg

Bought it Friday lunchtime from Cleveland Models. Straightforward build, took about 5 hours to get the rolling chassis sorted last night, spent another few hours today getting the electrics installed and the alignments correct. Body took 20 minutes! Not my forte so just went for the usual Tamiya PS-1 spray.

I think I managed to keep all the paint on tonight, I raced at york club meeting. Finished 2nd behind bruce thompson with his new B44. It was all good until bruce put a one way in his B44, then I just couldn't stay with him.

I didn't change the car and ran it 'kit' in qualifying. The only part I wasn't happy with was landing from the jump where the car would bounce a little. In the final with 501X shocks it was better but the rest of the track was flat anyway so it wasn't a huge improvement.
A one way would have really suited me round there but the standard car was still good.

Wow thats sex on wheels jimmy.

A

Just wait a while. Maxamps is working on a hard cased saddle Lipo. I found out in the past that stick pack 4wd buggies compare badly to saddle pack buggies when on bumpy tracks or when there are a lot of jumps.

BTW, I made this point to the federation meeting (no hard cased saddle pack Lipo's available yet) but they wouldn't listen. 4wd drivers are 2nd rate in Belgium I guess. :mad:

I believe trackpower are working on a hard cased saddle pack lipo. Which should be out soon.

A

I'll give the Apogee Magnum 3800 LiMn a try :D

Cool paint job Jimmy. Is it better to cut out the body before you paint it or after. I cut out the two I have painted so far but been told to paint them first???? Whats best?

I always cut first, its easier to move the airbrush & easier to mask. you don't risk damaging the paint when cutting it out either.

ran mine today, and apart from it being little portly, it handled excellent, and that was on everything kit, shok oil etc. The only thing I didn't like was the spring in the slipper clutch and the pad material, took loads to stop it slipping, so might try the B4 pads and springs.

Just broke mine today in the exact same place. Hoping it doesn't prove to be a weak spot!

That being said, I did give the car a serious strength test at the Teesside regional today. Spent the first round totally misjudging the jumps and landing on every part of the car except the wheels (been a while since I ran a buggy :wtf:). Nothing broke or got knocked off even though I wouldn't have been surprised it it did.

Unfortunately I then started to have a lot of problems with my batteries.:eh?:

First the Corallies were getting shaken loose (never ever had this happen before, happened three times in the space of two races!). A bit of electrical tape solved this.

Second, my batteries were actually breaking apart at the bars in each of my first three races. Now my soldering is not that bad, but looking at the design of the chassis it keeps the front cells in the pack pretty snug while the rear three are free to move around quite a lot. I tried putting a lot more sticky foam around the pack, this didn't seem to make a difference, so in the end I had to run a little superglue between the cells and wrap them in tape to hold them together. Something to watch out for maybe.

Setup wise was totally as kit except I put the small and large spacers on the front shocks to get it up to level wishbones. Handling was very good except for jumping a little bit nose down. Plenty of steering and rode the bumps surprisingly well considering the shocks.

Unfortunately the combination of 19T motor power and nose-down jumping was to be my undoing, tried to take the big tabletop in one during the D final (which I knew I couldn't do consistently), landed clumsily, flipped, and broke the rear tower.

Until that happened, my best laps were in the 24s range, which considering I was running a 19T motor was pretty pleasing. Best time was a 12/303, getting me 17th best time in round 4.

good to hear people are happy with the performance of the car.
Can't wait to get mine going. I hate waiting !!!(radio on backorder)
Jimmy does its appearance at a meet mean the review is going to be soon?

Having looked at my broken shock tower again this morning I noticed that the rear wing is actually mounted directly above the tower moulding, rather than offset to the rear like on most cars.

This means that if you land on your roof :eh?: the wing will be forced down onto the top of the tower.

I wonder if this results in more force being transferred onto the shock mount? Maybe I should redrill the wing to move it back 5mm?

If anything, I would think that would actually cushion the impact since the lexan must first deform before impacting the shock tower. This should help to slow the car down before the hit. Of course with the wing a little further back, the ground may not touch the shock tower at all and the wing will absorb ALL the damage...

Tough call sir...

Just in case anyone is interested I have just taken a couple of measurements from the Durga shocks (total length).

The fronts are approximately 77mm extended, 60mm compressed.

The rears are approximately 93mm extended, 65mm compressed.

Now as far as I can tell these are quite a lot shorter than the Associated shocks that I have some (older) measurements from, I think you would struggle to get proper travel if you fitted the AE shocks to a Durga.

I've run the 501X shocks which are identical to B4 dimensions without problems. The rear has a bit more droop with the 501X shocks on, and the front looks pretty similar though I had a small limiter in the front 501X shocks.
There didn't seem to be any problems with up-travel.

I'll try get some measurements of them tonight

I am still waiting for my shocks from the tamiya shop guy.....

I wonder how that compares with DF03 dampers??

The more dimensions the merrier!

I wasn't 100% sure on the accuracy of my old measurements. I took them about 5 years ago, before th B4 shock bodies came out.

DF03 kit shocks are the same shocks - apart from using a shorter rod end on the bottom of the rear durga shocks.
The df03 'hop up' shocks are simply too long for the Durga afaik.

Those kit shocks feel much better on the Durga than they did on the DI. More firm.

I had a look a Budgio's Durga at the weekend.

All in all it's a pretty nice car.

Elliott.

thats got something to do with the fact that Tamiya stuck 90wt oil in the kit...... but they feel nearly right for the car.

haha
its the same oil as the DF03 - the springs are the real difference. not bad, but some decent shocks are of course better.

Im holding out for shocks, not sure if its been mentioned but Tamiya are releasing a TRF set next year im told by a guy in Japan!

lee

They are already listed as a hop-up for the DB01 on TamiyaUSA. No pictures or release date though.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54028



As for the standard kit shocks, I wouldn't give much thought to their lengths. The black plastic CVA-II shocks were originally designed back in 1990 for the Avante 2001. At least this is the first car they appear on. All the parts (except springs) are still the same to this day. As someone else already stated, the only differences are the lengths of the bottom ball connector, as well as any internal limiters. You can bet that 501X shock would be ideal...

Does anyone besides myself, find it pointless to attach the 4 outer screws (3x12mm) to the gear cover? I think that the smaller screws (2.6x8mm) do just fine in holding the cover on.

the gear covers also stiffen the chassis up and strengthen it, they are a pain though. 8 screws just to see the spur.

Yeah exactly Jimmy! My whole purpose of that post was pretty much what you summed up in one word by saying a "pain." But now since you tell me that the screws actually have a purpose i guess i will be adding them when she is fitted with all of her proper electronics. I was wondering if anyone uses a power drill when tightening and removing screws? During my build of this chassis my hands were tore the hell up using my usual hand screwdriver. The screws on this particular chassis seemed very hard to get into as opposed to other ones i have built. The tip of my screwdriver actually chipped trying to get the 4 shock tower screws in.

You can replace those screws with shorter ones. I found that 10mm screws had enough bite in the chassis to be effective.

I do find it ironic that one of the car's primary features (sealed drivetrain) is something that people are finding annoying :wtf:

Got my 3M tap ready and raring to put to some good use...just the thing for my newly arrived DB01 titanium screw set....:cool:

If the car turns out to be popular enough, I'll bet some company will come out with a center-cover that has a snap lid in the middle for quick pinion changes and slipper adjustment.

On a side note: Does anybody know the reason Tamiya didn't just use the old standard style tapping screws? Are they not fit for actual racing or something. I don't think I've ever had any problems with tapping screws on any of my bashers...

the self tapping screws loosen up to easily so no good in a racing application.

I dremmeled out the area around the motor so I could leave the cover in place and keep strength. Pics later.

just bought the DB01:D

this car makes me feel that i have to decide on the motor that i have to use if not there's going to be a lot of screwing in and out.....and i can build my arm muscles:p

Stella have the slipper and front one way in stock now.