53884 TA05 Carbon Battery Plate Set

http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/sausage/TA_53884_1.jpg

Setup question
 

Hello fellow DB01ers!

Last Sunday i was running a local Cup race with my DB01R. Everything was
set up stock except the springs which were blue>front and red>rear.
I was using Barcodes>front and Holeshot>rear on Tamiya rims and also tested K-type on Tamiya rims. All setting were as they appear in the manual.
The track was cement concrete low-grip.

The problem was that i had a difficult time holding the rear when cornering unless i went very slow.
Sudden accelerations on the straights were ok, (not losing the rear), but while cornering at constant low speed was difficult. Any ideas?

Some videos of the Much More Cup 3rd Race.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vf3zVEB5nxE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-YUS9l2_pA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRnmWmtMMXc (check out the worst driver...thats me...well, i was running a fever 102.5F, but that didn't really degrade my performance :bored:)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rf2TcMcseBE

I used PS-36 Translucent silver + PS-5 black as backing, used 3M blue masking tape called painters paint. Here are the results

http://image2-8.rcuniverse.com/e1/fo...65/Pn36058.jpg

http://image2-3.rcuniverse.com/e1/fo...65/Bw71803.jpg

This thread is great, was just lurking before I got my DB-01. Not a racer, just bashing w/ my son racing around parks.

Good job! i like it !

Looks like a very clean job and good colours :wub

Gets a :thumbsup: from me

Andy

Any tips on mounting the front wheels to the hex hub?
its a real pain in the ass, i have already managed to deform the hex shape inside the rim

The black wheels are a tight fit on the hex. I remove some material with a knife.
The Tamiya yellow and white wheels are easy to fit.
Or use Losi wheels for example. You can also use Rulux wheels, but they have a 1 mm deeper hex so you have to use a spacer. Same goes for the Ass wheels i think, but I have never tried them.

Or get some Yeah Racing wheel adapters and run any 12mm hex wheels (like DF03 wheels).

They are a bit awkward, i think you generally get a feel for putting them on after time... basically you know when they have both married up correctly and then you can tighten the wheel nut ( dunno if that will make any sense) i also use the AW grease on the pins ,makes it alittle easyier so the pins aint falling out also.

Andy

12μμ ηεχ
 

The 12mm hex adapters(any make) and the rims that fit are a disaster for car geometry. If you are into racing you better steer away... I tried racing with these and it felt like wrestling with an octopus from hell!
For bashing they are fine as long as you take under concideration the wheel diameters that might change you ratio and affect the motor temps..

Hmm, I'm not quite sure what you mean about disaster geometry with the 12mm wheel conversion?

The wheels on both my Durga and 501x spun like warped vinyl records with the stock drive setup. Now with the 12mm conversions, they spin extremely true. Size wise, the wheels are the same size as DB01 wheels, and I am running the same tires, so I don't see how it can be worse unless I'm misunderstanding you (which is possible).

12mm conversion
 

Well,

while racing on a slick cement track, i had many problems setting it up. I had either under or oversteering problems... A guy who races a 501x and a Durga(sometimes) compared side by side his DB01 to mine. So it was obvious that the conversion with the HPI ULTRA 7 wheels from the CYBER10 made the car wider front compared to the rear. Switches to Cyclone rims with no luck. No matter how elaborately we tried to dial it, even he couldn't drive it up to his standards and he is the 3 times in a row Nationals winner). For me, it was like fighting with an octopus. It was after i switched back to stock wheels attachment that i managed to finish 8th (out of 28) :thumbsup:, where my usual record was 27th :cry:.

Car handling had miraculously improved!

The problems where not that extreme on the dirt tracks, though...


This is my experience.

Here's some pics of my latest eBay purchase. Even came with the servo, ESC and motor. Only hop-ups I added were the front & rear aluminum suspension mounts, titanium 1.6mm hex screws for the spur cover, Proline Hole Shots, metal suspension balls and metal bearing spacers. I also shimmed it to perfection. Can't wait to get it to the track...

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p.../rc/DB01-1.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p.../rc/DB01-3.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p.../rc/DB01-2.jpg

Diff action
 

Hello there!

I was down at the local track yesterday and 2 of the Tamiya (501x & 511) drivers where discussing the effect of diff tightness has on their driving...
How does a loose rear diff affect the behaviour when cornering, or a tight front diff? Oversteering or understeering? Loosing the tail when cornering, on or off-power?

Has anyone tried different diff settings?

They also suggested i switched to sensored, because my sensorless setup, even at the softest punch setting, is too agressive...
Is it worth switching over? (birthday is coming up.....)

A loose diff will reduce punch out of corner (because inside tire spins) and will also reduce oversteer.

A tight diff will increase oversteer out of a corner because it's more likely to spin both rear tires on power.

If you want to understand how everything effects your car, just read the Hudy Setup guide. You can download it from the X-ray site...
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...81&kategoria=0

Avoid using HoleShot tires on concrete - they are primarily designed for off-road (dirt etc). They won't grip very well and will get worn down very quickly.

Try using rear tires like the 'Proline Road Rage' if you continue to race on concrete. They will improve your traction quite a bit and will not wear down nearly as fast.

Hope this helps.

Clutches
 

A quick quest with regards to the Slipper clutch. What is the consensus on the Tamiya slipper pads and slipper springs? Are they adequate or is there another option that is leagues ahead? Any tips and tricks would be appreciated as well.

Cheers
FC

The Tamiya slipper pads and springs are perfectly fine. I am still using my original pads and springs after 1+ year of club racing.

I check them about once a month. Still going strong.

Personally I've got Associated slipper pads in the clutch and am using a Losi clutch spring, but I've no idea whether it's better or not!
Although it does feel like it's easier to adjust as the Tamiya spring always seemed to be done up quite tight

Pants, the pads glaze up, and the spring hasn't got enough adjustment in it, so to get it to slip just right, you are almost at the point of coil binding the spring, AE pads and either the AE or Losi spring is a far better option.

Tamiya has a new slipper spring. I think it's standard equipment on the 511 and DB01-R...