I don't think Tamiya actually said anything, I think that was a wholly Hobby Co thing... :(

Regarding the outdrive issue - I used the TA05 plastic outdrives on both my 501X and DB01 for several months without issues - this was with both an 11T brushed and 8.5 brsuhless motor.

Track surface was a mixture of about 60% dirt and 40% astroturf...with lots of big jumps.

Considering how cheap these outdrives are...if you used 2 or 3 sets a season I think that would be perfectly reasonable considering the weight saving.

However, I did only use them in the front...I dont think they'd last long at all in the rear ;)

Well doesn't that mean you could use the TA05 alloy ones then (with the plastic shoes)?

Also, I don't understand how the TA05 outdrives would benefit. You still need to use the large diff rings to work with the 37T pulleys, and they are not keyed. Does that mean you've also switched to the 36T pulleys?

good stock buggy?
 

do you find the shaft drive cars to be at an advantage over the db-01, particularly in stock class?

seems to be more guys going back to shaft cars in touring cars stock class, for the more instant power delivery.

Exactly, im switching the car to 36 tooth pulleys front and rear, 8 diff balls in each, which mean i can run the keyed diff rings, sure the diff might not be quite as smooth, but i cant see it affecting handling too much

yes it does mean you can run the ta05 alloy outdrives with the shoes, but they are expensive, and i think they'd chew out quicker than plastic ones, with the precision outdrives you get the outdrive saver ring, which helps prevent the outdrive being spread apart, which would be the main cause of failure in the stresses in off road, as i say, i'll put it to the test and see what happens, im only running 17.5 and have run losi plastic/composite outdrives in my cars and only had one failure in 6 years of running

My answer to that question is still pending, theres so much more that goes into a buggy's acceleration and top speed that its almost impossible to answer, i think more people would say that shaft drive is slightly better for stock, at this stage i dont think theres much in it, the db01 tranny is very simple, it has good amounts of belt wrap so in stock the belts can be run less tightly and the tranny is light weight, the belts and diffs in the db01 are much lighter than the shafts and diffs in the b44 for example, so my theory is all other things being equal, a db01 should be able to accelerate a little quicker than a b44, once i get my tekin rs speedy in a couple of weeks, i will be able to prove it or disprove it, lol

yeah I would like to do a side by side comparison between my db-01 and my other 4wd shafties. Have both on the same gearing, same weight, nail the throttle with a transmitter controlling both cars. Even though you say the rotating parts of the db-01 is lighter than the b44, I still think they b44 will outdrag it the first few metres.

but I think with the shaft v's belt, its not as important in off road, as there is limited traction available.

agreed, traction is the limiting factor, so far, i have found the db01 to put its power down quite well, it could be a comination of a good setup and the cars inherent design, but it puts its power down coming out of corners better than my xx4, xxx4 or x5 ever did, where i would normally be counter steering off corners to stop the rear end coming around on those cars, the db01 just pulls straight and hard out of the corner

On the other hand, aren't most good 1/10th on road cars belt driven?

yes for mod.

not for stock however, there are some people who believe shaft touring cars are better for stock spec class's as they give quicker throttle response, apparently.

The lowest price I found Precision outdrives are $10.90 shipped. The alloy ones can be had for $15.80 shipped. Not a huge price difference...

The 501X outdrives can be had for $17.18 shipped. The 3-racing DB01 outdrives can be had for $15.81 shipped.

Prices come from ebay or shopping.rcmodel.hk...

So are the diff & bulkhead widths the same for the TA05 and DB01 diffs? Does it require any additional shimming to fit TA05 diffs?

My DB01-R for the 2010 season in France :thumbsup: :

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/753/photo0021.jpg
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/943/photo0024.jpg
http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/1232/photo0025l.jpg
http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/3231/photo0026i.jpg
http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/3116/photo0027u.jpg
http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/2962/photo0028m.jpg
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/2206/photo0031.jpg
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/3324/photo0029p.jpg

Hey There
 

Hey Guys,
New DB-01 owner here. I have a quick query for you, someone out there may have experienced it before. I have noticed a slight throbbing in the drive of my DB-01. Still fairly stock except for a slipper clutch. When I take the centre diff cover off I can see that the Spur gear is slightly wobbling, which is what is causing the throbbing sound. Imagine the hole for the shaft being slightly off centre, and so the spur moves ever-so-slightly to and from the pinion. Are the 91T spur gears fairly reliable? I have taken the slipper apart and tried to make sure that is is all together snug and square. Are the 3racing Delrin's any better?
and...
Do the 3racing aluminium diff joints compare to the Tamiya 501's? Thanks in advance.

Old problem with the Tamiya Spurs - 91t is better, never used the 3-racing but heard they arent brilliant, but just use the associated 87t for a throbbing-free experience.... :lol:

Again never tried the 3-racing ally diffs, but the Tamiya's are great and last very well, and you should be able to pick them up for not much more that the 3-racings if you shop around.

the 501 diff joints are more durable, the Steel are more strong than ALu

I've been running the 3racing diff joints and they seem good. Not sure what material they are, they are sturdy enough.

Just painted my body shell, not so happy with the result.
The masking tape I used wasn't that good so some paint got under.
And anyone else ever used Tamiya Translucent paints?

Maybe the weather conditions weren't that excellent (cold) but that paint was like water, thin layers and still alot of leaks.

Oh well, the DB-01R drives super, but maybe I need to tighten my diffs a bit more.

Fat, avoid the 3Racing spur gears. The slipper pads do NOT fit in the spur well at all. Stick with Tamiya or Associated spur gears.

Spur gears
 

Aaron, thanks mate. Will pick up another TA one when I can.

@ buggyboy (or anyone else who knows!)

What carbon battery strap is that? I'm itching to get rid of the plastic piece of crap that comes in the kit!

FINALLY have some Durga shells so will get to hit the track with mine soon!

Scotty P.