oOple.com Forums - Tamiya Durga DB01 EP Buggy (A cheaper 501X?)

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Migs (Post 332348)

Hey guys, ive now tested the db01r at two tracks and it had its first club meet on the sunday just gone and im well impressed, so im going to run it this year as my 4wd, but now i want to make sure im not going to have any reliability issues, Primarily im looking at a few issues

Turnbuckles/ballstuds/ballcups having read a lot of threads about this car, i havnt seen many if any complaints about the standard items, anyone know of any issues? just from a a feel point of view, taking off a ball cup, it doesnt feel as tight as maybe an RPM one, this might sound like a silly question, but being an imperial racer for my career, im wondering if everything in the linkages is in metric including the actual ball of the stud, like are rpm 4-40 ball cups usable? if not, what is a good alternative, or is the general consensus that the standard items are up to the job

Wing mount - 3 racing do an aluminium one, my standard ones got bent up badly after one bad landing off a jump, ive seen a pic of two with people using them, or is it better to put up with replacing bent up plastic ones everynow and then

Shock towers, Atomic carbon ones look nice and ive seen a few people with them on their cars, worthy upgrade, i think a 5mm thick carbon front shock tower would be close to indestructable

aluminium steering bridge etc, has anyone found any benefit from using them, i dont think it would ever break but i suppose it could be flexing a bit under load, but i dont think i'll worry about it

aluminium front hub carriers/knuckles/rear hubs, on my xxx4 i used to break front hub carriers just by looking at the car, then i got metal ones and had no dramas, again, with the db01 i havnt heard people complaining about breaking any of those items, im thinking the hubs and knuckles and im already getting a bit of play in the bearing seats

thanks

Turnbuckles/ballstuds/ballcups
Not sure what ball studs the DB01R comes with - but the flagship TRF511 comes with cheap almost-comedy quality ball studs that really need replacing. The DB01 ones were ok - as long as they aren't those nasty bright silver ones then they'll be fine.
The ball cups work ok if you never pop then on and off - the more you do, the quicker they die basically. They get sloppy quickly from repeated assembly.

Tamiya have some grey ball cups on the way - but not available yet. Supposed to be better.

On my 501X I used Hot Bodies ball studs (from the D4) and Losi ball cups. The Hot Bodies ball studs are metric (so fit the Tamiyas) but use a smaller imperial sized ball cup like the losi.

Use the plastic wing mounts - they flex for a reason. Alloy is a really bad idea. I've never broken one.

The front tower on the db01 I think is about as indestructable as you'd want tbh - but the Atomic stuff is nice and I'd definitely consider the rear tower.

The alloy steering stuff - pretty worthless in my opinion. It looks great but doesn't really add anything performance wise.

The standard hubs are pretty strong to be honest - I think I broke two hub carriers on the front of my Tamiyas over the years (501X, 511, dbo1) and a couple of steering knuckles. The rear hub I never broke. I personally prefer them plastic.

The main upgrade on the DB01r would have to be full-metal differential halves instead of the half plastic items carried over from the original db01 (as far as I know anyway). I'd get those ahead of any of the other things you're considering.

Jimmy, thanks for the informative reply, i was thinking D4 or tc5 for ballstuds, did u replace the "ball connector nuts" with normal ball studs? im glad losi ball cups will fit

i'll steer clear of all the aluminium stuff, it will be heavier than the plastic anyway, im trying to get the car lighter

Agreed, the 501x out drives are a definate on the list, though in the interests of keeping the drive train lighter for 17.5 racing, i'm actually going to run ta05 diffs so i can run plastic out drives with the keyed diff rings, the ta05 layshaft has already been fitted, but for the end of year enduro the metal outdrives will be going in

Hey, I'm not sure what you mean by ball connector nuts?

My DB01 was under 2WD weight with a 3600mah lipo - some cars are a bit sketchy without some weight in there, but the DB01 was very good.

Ah, didn't see you were running limited motor class - the stock ones would probably hold up to that anyway to be honest - but I'd not rely on them with anything like a 6.5-7.5 or faster motor. I'd also not use the plastic outdrives for anything quicker.
Quick question - are you sure they'll fit? Touring car outdrives aren't as long so you might not be able to get much suspension droop (or any)?

I replaced a few non-essential screws with aluminium ones which weigh nothing. But you need to make sure the holes are nice and greased and run a normal screw in and out a few times to loosen them a little. I used the alloy screws to hold on all three top covers. Don't use them on anything else though.

my DB01, with essential alloy parts (suspension holders), needs weight to make the minimum weight limit.

As for the TA05 diff outdrives, I really wouldn't bother, as with any loading on them, you will be melting them, you would be far better off chucking the 501X outdrives in there, and just aim at keeping the weight down. In the end, to finish first, first you must finish!!

the nut connector is that thing like a ballstud, but doesnt have its own threaded shaft, it gets screwed into from the other side, part number 19808012 is what im talking about.

what i dont get is why its said that ta05 outdrives would melt, surely the loading going through a touring cars drivetrain would exceed that of an off roader, ive done 15 runs with the standard db01 plastic outdrives, any i'll test it all, i have 2 months until the state championship starts, i'll get the 501x outdrives, maybe the potential unreliability isnt worth a few grams saved in the drive train

What im intrigued about is how ur cars end up so light, can you tell me what they are actually weighing in at? mine is 1700g which i think is 3.75 pounds in ur language, i want to get it down to 3.58

Mine was I think ~1473g from what I remember.
Tyres are a big part of it - we use Schumacher tyres which are light - the Tamiya kit tyres if thats what you have to use also, are a lot heavier.

Touring cars don't get anything like the diff abuse that an offroader gets I imagine - get hung up on a pipe and gun the throttle with one wheel spinning - it'll give the diff a real work out. Not to mention all the hard landings under power.

nevermind fusionhobbies having bodies in stock... they don't display on their site that they're out, but a week after placing my order and after asking why my order hasn't shipped yet, they email me that they're out of Baldre bodies..

Seems like i'll have my car this week, but no body.. :(
anyone know a store (preferably Europe or US) that still carry some?

In my TA05, with a 10.5, I have melted the High Precision diff halves... and they won't take the wide range of driveshaft angle, either.

1473g? wow thats a major difference, i weighed mine with blockheads on the front, switches on the rear and losi rims all round, i suppose i have heavy electrics, full size jr servo, losi speedy, and im running a big lep heatsink, im getting a tekin rs for it and i'll probaly get a low profile servo thats lighter than my jr

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidk (Post 332423)

http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/

Quote:

Originally Posted by crusader (Post 332834)

http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/

Even he hasn´t got any in stock at the moment...

they do have a durga, but I don't like the durga.
oh well, better an ugly body shell, than no body shell.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy (Post 332349)

Not sure what ball studs the DB01R comes with -
Tamiya have some grey ball cups on the way - but not available yet. Supposed to be better.

R comes with the same as regular db-01.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy (Post 332349)

Use the plastic wing mounts - they flex for a reason. Alloy is a really bad idea. I've never broken one.

The front tower on the db01 I think is about as indestructable as you'd want tbh - but the Atomic stuff is nice and I'd definitely consider the rear tower.

The alloy steering stuff - pretty worthless in my opinion. It looks great but doesn't really add anything performance wise.

The standard hubs are pretty strong to be honest - I think I broke two hub carriers on the front of my Tamiyas over the years (501X, 511, dbo1) and a couple of steering knuckles. The rear hub I never broke. I personally prefer them plastic.

The main upgrade on the DB01r would have to be full-metal differential halves instead of the half plastic items carried over from the original db01 (as far as I know anyway). I'd get those ahead of any of the other things you're considering.

I use(d) the alloy wing mount cause with the normal mount the spoiler hit the rear damper bridge.
So far the only thing that was hurt is the part of the spoiler where it's mounted.
Not sure if i'll keep using it though.

I got both atomic carbon towers basicly cause i wanted the rear one and it looks nicer with both on instead of just the rear.

Also got the alloy steering seems to move around a bit less then the plastic ones. But if its noticeble on the track i doubt it.

I've had one problem with the rear hubs and that was a ballstud coming out. The thread was basicly gone from the hub but Tamiya fixed that for the DB-01R by using a screw from the back and a nut ballcup.
Still doubting if i'll get the alloy ones from the trf or just fix it like above.

Can anybody tell me what sort of spacers I will need on the control arm shafts when switching to the metal suspension balls? I'm noticing the metal balls are considerably longer than the plastic kit balls. I'm guessing this is gonna alter my wheelbase, and wheelbase adjustment range... :bored:

Hey Carno

Thanks for the feedback, lol and i agree, if you're going to get one atomic carbon shock tower, u might aswell get both so it matches.

You're right about the rear hub ball stud on the db01r, it has the screw from the back into the nut ballcup, if i upgrade the ball studs, i'll get ones with long threads and put a nut on the other side

Jimmy Re: the touring car out drives, i saw a photo in one of the threads of a durga with the precision out drives in the front diff, and after pm'ing him, he said he hadnt had any dramas using them on the front end and he was running 8.5. i'll check out the ta05 outdrives tonight, but on first glance i didnt see any real difference, i can only try it, i have 2 months to test it all out, if they melt/fall apart, at least i'll know, and if they work, it should help make the car a little bit faster. This is all tamiyas fault anyway, why couldnt they make the big diff rings keyed like the small ones are, lol

Tamiya REALLY need to fix this body situation. It's ridiculous!

FYI - the Baldre body has been discontinued so forget about that.

Even in Japan the Durga shell is only available thru special order. Shops do not stock it! Crazy.

lol what are we gonna have to do scotty, buy up Baldre kits just to get the bodies out of them or something, lol

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94eg! (Post 333057)

Never Mind. The metal suspension balls are only a fraction of a mm longer than the plastic ones once installed (probably .05mm or less each). The thing that makes them look longer is that the metal ones don't have the extra chamfer on the radius end.

I noticed a tiny reduction in arm play after installing mine with the same kit spacers. Makes the rear arms quite tight with the provided 1mm & 2mm spacers on the shaft. I would like to switch out the 1mm spacer with a .7mm one (same ones from the motor mounting srews) with a .2mm shim on top of that. I think that would make the rear arms perfect.

Front end is just perfect with the two .02mm shims used in the standard kit. Reduces just enough play to be tight, but allow movement. I'm sure after I swtich to alloy suspension mounts, everything will change...

Now Tamiya needs to make 2.6mm ID shims for outer hinge pins...

I think they do, check out a Tamiya stockist that specialise in TC cars, you might find them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottyP (Post 333823)

If they really have discontinued the Baldre shell, maybe that will allow Kamtec to start selling their replica?
It would make it hard for HobbyCo or Tamiya to claim loss of sales for something they don't sell!
(Mind you I bet that wouldn't stop HobbyCo)