ZXR MKII main belt issue.
 

I'm currently looking at replacing a worn belt on my Lazer ZXR mk2 and the LA-13 seems very loose. Is this the wrong belt for this car and are there any other good options out there as a replacement?
Please help. Cheers-Jason

Hi Jason,

Yes there is ==> http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOUGHRACING-...item51a7632684

Best regards from Belgium

The question I need to ask is, does the ZXR MK2 require a shorter front belt than the LA13? I have fitted a genuine nip belt and it's still too loose.
Does the later model ZXR MK2 require a different belt? A shorter one?

The Lazer MkII use the same LA13 belt used by the other Lazer series car.

On my Lazer MkII the belt came lose with use, but the problem is not the belt. The problem is that the holes of the upper deck are a little too big and after some jumps and landings the front bulkhead (LA32) will move a little toward the rear of the car so the belt will became lose.

If you lose the screws that hold the top deck to the front bulkhead and re tight them with the chassis on a flat surface you will see that the length of the belt is ok.

I still have to find a good fix on my car, but now I understand why on the custom Welshy top deck the screws have a countersunk hole (using a countersunk hole the front bulkhead cannot move toward the rear of the car).

Maybe we have to ask to Fiber Lyte a custom Zx-r MkII top deck with countersunk holes ......

Bye
Ema

So they've used the same length belt for the earlier ZX & ZXR as the later ZXRR & ZXR MKII even though in the later two models they shifted the rear gearbox forward. Essentially the belt should have been shorter.
C R A Z Y !

The gearboxes are in the same place on the MKI and MKII the only difference is the rear bulkhead was moved further back so the batteries could be moved further back and the top deck is longer as a consequence

They didn't move the gearbox, the moved the cells from what I understand.

My bad, thanks for helping straighten me out gents. The belt feels a lot looser than that on my ZXR so I loosened the top plate, flatenned the chassis out then retightened. It did take up some of the slack. Maybe I need a special top plate as previously mentioned with countersunk holes?

If you run it the front belt over time does slacken. Its plausible that the top deck is the wrong length or your lower on one of the mounting points for it

This can be an alternative solution to a different top deck, plus it helps in preventing the LA32 breakage.
I think that the metal parts can be extended over the steering bellcranks screws.

Unfortunately the car in the photo is not mine :( .....

http://i59.tinypic.com/2dkyb1j.jpg


Bye
Ema

LEGENDS shock towers.
 

on another note I picked up some very nice shock towers from Ema a while back that are on my ZX vintage racer. You know, the ones that have so many holes they could be mistaken for swiss cheese...;). Anyway Ive damaged the rear tower whilst hitting up a big jump section a little while back and would love to find some heavy duty C/F or G10 examples.
Does any one make these or have files from which to machine them from?

I damaged my Fibre Lyte James Instone Lazer ZX rear shock tower too casing a huge jump.

ountersunk the holes and get and maybe welsh can help with an solution to tighten the belt .

regarding the broken tower maybe just sending it to fibrelyte might help ????

mvh isobarik

Pictures would be helpful

ZX-R(R) Slipper/ Hyperclutch
 

Hi guys,

ist me again with some questions about the lazers slipper or hyperclutch.

Aditional for my Lazer ZX I get a layshaft with the slipperunit from a ZX-R,
I found it on ebay:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/281258678972?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1439.l2649

Is it necessary to change only the slipperplates and the pads, or shall I use the complete layshaft for making works? (I have the LA6 and the LAW4, witch ist better for using the ZX-R-Slipper?)

Yesterday I found a little bit damaged ZX-RR with the hypercluth. It will arrive in the next days. Here ist the gearbox and the hyperclutch complete.

Does the hyperclutch(only one slipperpad) better works than the slipper oft he ZX-R (two red slipperplads)?

Is it correct, that the ZX-R slipperplates are not longer available?
And, last question: There is a lipperpad for a associated car, that should fit in the hyperclutch.
What ist the part number or correct name of this spare part?
Thank you for helping me an excuse my bad english.

Regards
Ralf

Looking at the picture on ebay, it seems that you bought a Kyosho Triumph slipper.
The gear and the pads are the same, but the shaft is different from the one used by the Zx-r.
You can check the difference looking at the Triumph manual here: http://www.retromodelisme.com/pdf/ma...18/triumph.pdf

The hyperclucth works better, but I don't know if it can handle the low turn brushless motors.

Some peoples here (including myself) are waiting the custom alcyon's B4 slipper shaft that will allow us to use the newer associated B4 slippers (the standard and the VTS one).

Bye
Ema

Hi Ema,

at ebay the part was announced as a ZX-R part, shit....:cry:
May be the slipperplates and the pads could be fixed on the lazer zx layshaft. Put the balls out of the spurgear, also the LA3. Put in the TM 12, while missing the LA56 I will try to use a mixture of TM13 and LA6. I hope, the flatted area on the ZX-layshaft is therefore usable.
Ohterwise I will resell it. Ok, waiting for the ZX-RR. I dont will use brushless with less than 10T, so the hyperclutch may work fine, I hope so.

Bye
Ralf

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-As...item3a8adf74ba

mvh isobarik

Hyper clutch is much easier to use but now with brushless motors the two red slipper pad clutch may be the best way forward. All clutches are listed in the manuals and all have different front and back plates so manual checking is advised first before buying.

The red pads are hard to locate but what you can do is buy the extra torque b4/b44 slipper pads and cut to the exact size to fit. That way you will have a few spare should they burn out.

Also fyi my back up lazer has this clutch fitted but is untested so i could be wrong.

Thank you for your helpful answers.

Is the layshaft of the ZX-R the same as the layshaft of the ZX-RR?

The manual about the ZX-RR contains the ZX-R manual and two aditional sides (supplemantary instuction manual). Insinde there is no different part numer for the hyperclutch-layshaft. On the pictures it looks ab bit different.
Perhaps I can change the slippers at ZX-RR (either hypercluth or the two red pads).

I could buy a new Lazer ZX-R layshaft, but for compleeting the unit, there are much more parts necessary, that I dont have on my Lazer ZX.

BTW:
I read several times a description about the center-diff with using LA-6 or LAW-4, but I have not understood the functionality of it (more power front / more power rear). I tried to translate the explanation about the drive unit, like setting Type 1 and Type 3 - I think, I am not tecnical enough.That is my major reason for upgrading to a ZX-R (or RR).
The ZX works good, but this "not understanding of the drive unit from the ZX" sucks.

Have a nice day!

Regards
Ralf

No, they are different.

I think there is some misunderstanding here.
The Zx-r manual with the two addendum is the Zx-r MKII, basically a Zx-r version with a longer top dec but the standard Zx-r slipper.
The hyper clutch is a different one.

Check carefully all the Zx series manuals and I'm sure you will figure out what I am saying.

Lazer Zx:
- http://www.retromodelisme.com/pdf/ma...4/lazer_zx.pdf

Lazer Zx-r (with MKII addendum):
http://www.retromodelisme.com/pdf/ma...lazer_zx-r.pdf

Lazer Zx-rr supplement (hyper clutch and equalizer shocks):
http://www.retromodelisme.com/pdf/ma...supplement.pdf

Lazer Alpha 2000 (cheapest Lazer version):
- http://www.retromodelisme.com/pdf/ma...lpha_lazer.pdf

Lazer Zx-sport (cheap Lazer version):
http://www.retromodelisme.com/pdf/ma...ish_manual.pdf

Bye
Ema

Hi Ema,

thank you for quick answering. I took the papers in the attachmend.
http://www.retromodelisme.com/pdf/ma...lazer_zx-r.pdf
There was shown the hyperclutch. So I thought it is the bridge from the
basic ZR-R to the ZX-RR with hyperclutch.:cry:

The second link in your list ist the " normal Lazer ZX-R", I have assableled severl times some years ago.
I can not find an MKII addenum, it looks like des basic ZX-R in this maual, the manual has no aditional pages.
This is the reason, why the two pages in the attchment seemed to be the direct upgrade - with hyperclutch.

I will follow your adwise an take a look at the different manuals.

Thank you very much for your patience, I m sorry for my stupid questions.

Regards
Ralf

slipper
 

Ralf M, If you have a lazer zx layshaft and the la59 lazer zxr slipper/drive plates, all you need to do is file a flat in the zx layshaft for the grubscrew in the zxr slipper/drive plates to tighten against.
Then like james said get some associated high torque pads (part number 91170) and trim about 2mm of each flat to fit the kyosho spur gear.

This is what i have used for months with 6.5t brushless and lipo with no issues.

Hi rob m,

thank you, that sounds good:woot:. I think you meen the LA-56 (Drive Hub Set),the LA-59 I have not found on the explodet view in the ZX-R manual.
I will look for a new LA-56 (or LA-59, if I`m not right). (edit)

Regards
Ralf M

PS: Thanks ofcourse to all other helping guys. Nice forum!

yes your right la56. Can still buy them from ebay uk.

Hi guys,

I am still thinking about getting a slipper in my Lazer ZX, I will try the advise from rob m.
Putting a flat spot on the ZX-layshaft to fix LA-56 with the screw an using the slipperpads.

But there is still an interesting question. How will the Lazer ZX works with a combination
of LA-6 (Type1) or LAW-4 (called Type 3 in the Lazer ZX manual) instead the LA-56?

If I understand it correctly, the Type 1 with LA-6 oneway gives more power to the front-wheels, when the front-wheels start spinning. Type 3 oneway rear (LAW-4) works in the other direction and gives more power to the rear- wheels. LA-6 and LAW-4 are not fixed on the layshaft by using a screw.

Now the question; how will it work in comination with the slipperpads instead of the diff-balls?
Different power to the rear or front during the slipping-time? So it´s no more a 3.diff ?!.

Does it makes any sence?

In a very old thread in onother forum (2004), I read a posting from welshy about the relation front to rear 50:50, or 60:40 however the 3.diff is loose or tightend via using LA-6 or LAW-4.

I have modified an paricular explodet view to show you, what I mean.

Be sure, that I will be very happy about your helpful answers or advises.

Regards
Ralf

I think i know what you mean. Are you wanting to know how the drive to the wheels would be if the grub scew was removed from the la56 ( not fixed to layshaft ) compared to the la56 being fixed to layshaft?

My guess would be that the drive would go to the lightest wheel.

How about this idea, remove grub screw from the la56 and use 1 associated high torque slipper pad ( part number 91170 ) on one side of spur and use 1 associated white slipper pad ( part number 9603 ) on the other side of the spur gear, this way the end with the high torque pad will get more drive. Doing this will not just send the drive to the lightest wheel as easy, it will give the drive something like a 60/40 split and should be less likely to go to the lightest wheels.

First of all i have LA8 and LA55 layshafts so will be up for a trade for one pair of OT16 alloy version for the Lazer ZX or two of the OT16 plastic versions for the ZXR so let me know what layshaft you want.

Secondly the zx slipper system was at its time superb but as Terry has also said its now out of date and too complex. Yes i got on with it but rebuilds were a pain as it was a pain to get the setting right. Better to get the newer version where its 50/50 drive train and some like me prefer the one way which is a benefit if you dont use the brakes or if using brakes tighten the one way for total four wheel drive.

ive just got the 3 racing zx5 knuckles from ebay. They are identical and will work but i did have to machine .85mm off the lower king pin boss. Just waiting in them to be anodized black.

Hi,

thanky you rob m and welshy for the fast reply and explanation and especally for your offer abouth the layshaft, welshy.

if I have all missed orders together and the postman has delivered the ZX-RR, I will proof an give a feedback.

PS: Normaly the technik at my other hobby is a bit bigger, also the screws and bolts:
http://www.ralfmeierwolfhagen.de/15202/26753.html
http://www.ralfmeierwolfhagen.de/15202/30253.html

best regards

RalfM

Ralf, its been twenty years since my last ride on a bike, but i like, side car is great for the dog.

Welshy: Yes my dogs love motorbikes and sidecar, especally the travels in their trailer. To legalize such a single-wheeltrailer behind a sindecar or a motorbike is in germany very difficult.

Back to the lazer-theme:

My ZX-RR arrived in very poor condition. But the hyerclutch, the spurgear, front and gearbox, the diffs are ok and I transplantated them ton my ZX.
The motorplate is a little smaller. I had not time enough to test it together with a 10T brushless Tacon-Motor.

How ist the quality of the equalizer-shocks from the ZX-RR?
Better, equal or lower quality as the golden shocks?

Regards
Ralf

The equalizer shocks are just as good. I think you will prefer them. They are basically identical in design to the kyosho shocks that are being sold now.

I have now three different low budget brushless motors
1. ezrun 13T with finned cam (380 inner size)
2. ezrun 10T with finned cam (380 inner size)
3. Tacon 10T (540er size)

The 1oT ezrun has more KV (3900 watt unknown??) labelt as the 10T Tacon (3500 and 900 watt).
Which one would be better (faster?)
I think, the Tacon has more torque, cause he is bigger and has more weight.
But whats about topspeed?
My ESC has only 60a.
I put a similar question any days ago in the electric-forum but did not get an answer.

Have a good start in the next week!

Regard
Ralf

Ralf, im not certain your esc is good enough for the job, mine has several hundred amps and would advise buying a better esc with motor.

Ive an LRP SXXTC and is superb and cannot fault it or any LRP products as they work really well, but am now upgrading to an HPI Flux Pro esc with a motor and would suggest a 10t motor.

Maybe someone else may have an opinion as well as dont just take my word for it.

Hey iso, a little payback for all my Canadian brothers from the last time that you guys beat us in hockey ;)

Don't be mad :D

The match was rather good.

:lol::lol::lol:

Speaking strictly as a fan, it was kind of boring to be honest. I would have much rather it been a back and forth game with each team trading goals along the way. That being said, if I was on the Canadian team, that's exactly how I would have wanted it to go. Just flat out dominate and come away with a win. It would have been a different game if Sedin, Backstrom and Zetterberg had played but the Swedes still would have had their hands very very full.

hyperclutch
 

I have assambled the hyperclutch from the damaged ZX-RR into my ZX.

Unfortunately the part no. 190 (supplement) is damaged. It seemed to be a very small trust-bearing. Can I replace this part with washers or a normal bearing?

As I have tested the hyperclutch yesterday, than was it nearly impossible, to produce enough pressure with the spring. The slipper dont stopped spinning. So I took the other springs (TM-19, they have a form like waves ans the limmiter-washer) for more pressure. Only by going this way I get the brushless 10T running. So I think it ist important, to get anough pessure on the spurgear and the combined plate (Part 192 from the supplement-view). May be the slipperpad ist to old or is wared out, I have ordered a pad for the aasociated stealth (Isobarik gave me a link)

BTW: While using the ZX-Diff and no slipper, I had a very good brake, ecpecially on the front. Now, with the 3.diff out an using the hypercluth, the brakeperformance is not as goog as before. I have nothing changed on the features brake adjustments of the esc.

Regards
Ralf