I have to agree with you about the shocks. I went to the Batley regional with my car setup with drilled six holes shocks the car was terrible so changed to four hole which transformed it. This was done before seeing your setup. The shocks feel to soft with no damping on six holes.

thanks for the help, my wheelbase is still as kit setup from build so i also need to shorten this right?

Rear Motor Setup Grass/Astro
 

Have ran my car for a few meeetings mid motor and have now converted over to rear motor.Would like to know if anyone has found a good setup for grass/astro track.

yes ian i have found short wheelbase works best everywhere so far! but i havent done any high grip work yet!!

ideal thanks racing tonight and hrc block n shims should be turning up today so be able to give setup a run tonight :-)

Interesting I've gone long wheelbase and prefer it to short

Hi guys!

Building my 2nd 22 now, as a midmotor. I have a gearbox leftover from the rearmotor build, and a new one, but both seem to be warped in some way... The motor won't line up straight, and the axle stands at an angle compared to the spur. Anyone else experienced this?

Really fucked up problem, I nearly lost my temper after building the second box...

Im the other way spencer i ran mine with 4 hole pistons, the car felt solid as a rock so changed to 6 hole and transformed the car for the better!


Ash

Which shocks setup are you using with a rear motor and a high grip surface like carpet?

Hi!

I need a mid motor setup for a big outdoor clay track that will become pretty rough. Any tips?

Ran the 22 on grass/hardpacked soil
Hrc block fitted
76gram under lipo weight
50 gram rear weight with an additional 25 grams added
Front 54 piston 35 weight oil
Rear 56 piston 27.5 weight oil
Front red springs
Rear yellow springs
Front staggered cut rib yellow compound
Rear dboots megabites
Run full lipo with the electrics all on an ally plate above lipo
Run a 8.5 ballistic on a 22 tooth pinion
Superb very pleased with it now:thumbsup:

Yeah mine is like this and I'm trying to shim the aluminium plate slightly where it's bolted to the gearbox casing. The motor sits at an angle and is not right. Not impressed :thumbdown:

Surely that is a manufacturing problem and Horizon will replace it for you free? :eh?:

Hi,

Can anyone help!!! I've tried to open the links posted for the taplow setup but it just shows blank setup sheets! Is anyone else having this problem??

Cheers
Tom.

Works fine for me. Did you let it fully load?.

It loads the main page then the settings ;)

Ran my car again last night and managed to knock a couple tenths of a second per lap during practise before the quals.

Last week the car was running in the 12.1 to 12.5 range. Last night I ran some back to back 12.0's and then near the end of my run it happened. I turned a 11.9 and then an 11.8. This was with little to no traffic on the track so I could really get into a groove. Once the quals started I lost the mojo and was back to 12.3 or 12.4 second laps. Then in the main I gained back some lost ground and got it back to 12.1

I was adjusting the boost on my Tekin RS all night to find a happy medium. 45 degrees boost worked good in practise but was a handful in the quals. I ended up running 25 degrees boost on 13.5 turn and it felt fast but controllable on our smallish 72x45 carpet track.

Here is the setup that I ran:

Front:
56 x 6 piston, 27.5 wt oil, green spring, 3mm spacer, bladders cut
middle arm, middle tower
1-A link (2mm on bulkhead, no limiters on block)
1mm bumpsteer
no toe in/out
-1.5 camber
22 mm ride height
spindle washers flippped (1.5 top, 0.5 bottom)
25 degree kick up, 5 degree castor

Rear:
55 x 6 piston, 32.5 wt oil, pink spring, 0 limiters, bladders cut
inside arm, middle tower
2-C link (2mm bulkhead, 1mm on hub)
hubs moved 1mm forward
3.5 toe, HRC block, 2.5 degree antisquat
22.5 mm ride height
-1 camber

Minipin rears, stagger rib fronts
Tekin RS w/ Duo 2 13.5
Xcelorin 3800mah 96mm lipo
Savox 1258

21 grams on rear gearbox. No weight under battery.

I notice with the bladders cut and running emulsion shocks the car takes a few laps before it feels its groove. My lap times generally go down 4 or 5 tenths after I have at least 4 or 5 laps on the track during practise. I try to pump the shocks by hand before I put the car down for the quals but having the shocks work in on the track seems the best.

Who is running bladders still vs. running emulsion style?

4 degree hrc block
 

hi

i need some help working out how a hrc block works?

ive just bought a 4 degree hrc block and shim kit and want to replace it with the kit standard one?

Wot would this acheive and what are the effects ect... also got the hrc shim kit and would like to know what the best shim number would be? and best set up for southport would be?

Current set up
Green front spring
35 wt oil
middle tower and wish bone.
2mm spacer on hub (turnbuckle)

rear Yellow springs
27.5 wt oil
middle tower and wish bone

8.5 t


cheers
Daniel

Ran at the RCArena tonight, will post my setup over the weekend, but the car was awesome....:thumbsup:

I'm testing with emulsion today along with some other things I want to play with - will let you know how it goes.

Ran emulsion in the rear only at the last meeting - TBH I couldn't feel much difference - made the change part way through the day and did go faster in the end but can't for sure say it was purely cutting the bladders that gave me the extra pace. Maybe a slight improvement but not conclusive - hence the testing today.

I actually think that I found more pace when I stopped driving it like Miss Daisy and actually started to race it. For sure, I prefer to be smooth and I don't think it likes being mashed hard with the throttle but when I actually started driving it with more commitment into the corners and stopped being scared of making a mistake, I found that it actually gripped harder and for longer than I thought it would and so I went faster overall. It also seemed to land the jumps better when I had more commitment into and over them. Like I say - not maybe purely down to the bladders but that was the major thing I changed during the day.
HTH

Stevepro racing setup
 

Decided to try another setup last night for racing at caldicot which is a mix of very slippy polished, carpet and hardboard sections with bumps, jumps etc
The car has been workign for me but just felt it could give more and be less snappy out of the bends and i didnt find that the taplow indoor setups didnt work very well on the slippy stuff at all!(maybe just my thumbs or driving style mind lol)
After some thought decided to try steveproracing's slippy outdoor setup for batley and pleased with the results:thumbsup:

Link to setup :
http://www.oople.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1303222844

Things i changed which all resulted in improved drivability and lap times :D:
- Stagger ribs up front
- 5 deg castor blocks
- upped ballast to 102g under lipos

I was sceptical that 4 holes would work as they just feel dead compared to the 6 holes which felt soo nice when built but they seem to work well with the rest of this setup:thumbsup:

That sounds good. Our Taplow setup was before we got the optional caster blocks and we're still learning so things are developing. I've not tried StevePro's setup but it's all cool that people are finding their own way with the car - it does take time and everyone drive's differently but Oopledom is a great place to pick up some cool tips.

Ran Emulsion shocks all day today at Westmill Farm - all Astro track just outside Stevenage - pretty happy with my car at the moment. Gone back to 4 hole pistons myself at the moment and found 4 hole 54s in the rear and a mix of 2 x 55 + 2 x 56 in the front worked well.

Not conclusive cos I ran out of time to test my final setup with bladder shocks but I would say that the emulsion ones make the shocks slightly better but they are a pig to bleed and get right. I much prefer the building of bladder shocks but the emulsion ones did seem to work well.

Ended up running a shorter front link (outer hole on the camber block) and this made the car safer on corner exit. Personally, I felt they made the car stall in the corner slightly but the stopwatch doesn't lie and I was faster with the short links.

Tried some Losi tyres at the end of the day as well - Awesome stuff. No appreciable wear after a run and really nice feeling. Still got some work to do but happy daze;)

Big up to the Herts RC crew and Westmill :thumbsup: - track is good and facilities amazing. Hope to get back there soon - great day testing today with some of the team.

Right, ran Steveonamission's setup today, except for pink springs on the rear, staggered ribs on the front. Initially had way to much front end, ended up on 35wt oil and outer holes on the wishbone to calm it down.

Now, here's the headache. On low grip sections, the rear continuously wants to step out and the car constantly feels twitchy down the straight. I am not running any weight currently, I need help!!

DCM - a couple of things that might help you.
Firstly - I'm not familair off-hand with steveonamission's set up to apologies to you and him if you're already on any of this but these are things we've picked up during testing a running that might help

The short front link helps stabilize the car on corner exit - allowing you to get on the power a little earlier without the front hanging on in the turn which otherwise can cause the rear to over rotate.

5 degree caster blocks and the 25 deg kick up shim has a similar effect.

Slam some weight in it. Crude but effective - certainly for our types of track. My car is running at just over 1750g and is very settled.

Locking in the rear end - going to a shorter wheelbase definately locks the rear end in more on acceleration but at the expense sometimes of bump handling and overall corner speed. You can shorten the wheelbase at the hub or I have seen some extreme shortness where people have trimmed a bit of the front edge of the rear wishbones. This causes massive dog bone sweep which makes the car 'dig' on throttle - making it feel and look massively locked in.

It's a bit of a juggling act - we've shown in testing thus far that the safer, more confidence inspiring setups are slower than the looser feeling ones. But confidence is a key factor in off-road so I'm not about to say they're wrong - but locking in the rear end does rob the car of it's natural corner speed leading to stalling on the apexes and needing the driver to hustle it more around the track - which in itself can lead to more mistakes as you drive more aggressively and 'attack' more.

HTH

On the shorter front link.
Short wheelbase
Not gone to 5' caster blocks as yet
No weight.

I can drive it off a corener, but a hairpin, it just loses out on the rear.

where are you on antisquat and rear toe in
the 22 loves antisquat i find. its usually lacking in forward drive when it spins out on the exit of a corner. i am running 4 deg squat and 4.5 toe block ((hrc))

my car has a lot of rear grip and feels really locked in!!

Any chance you can post your latest setup and say what surface it's for? :thumbsup:

i am still running the setup i previously posted (there is a link posted to it only a few posts down) except i have found that the rear link when in 1d gives even more drive on corner exit
oh and 5 deg caster blocks!!

sorry still didnt state surface
its for a very loose track that is really cut up and bumpy
it is astro and grass
(batley buggy club)

Steve i also ran today with your setup against dcm at same high grip grass track.
My car is slightly tweaked from you setup with 5 deg castor blocks, 3 deg and 1deg anti squat shims and 102g under lipos it worked great indoors but as dcm said it still suffered on drive out of the corners (spinning out):(

I backed off the speedo setting as running a 6.5 speed passion motor and also the slipper but still couldnt compete with X6's in slow bends but was all over them in mid to high speed bends and sections:thumbsup:

Im a little confused re your anti squat and toe in settings!
Are you running 1 deg squat with a 3deg toe in block?

Sorry my bad :lol:
4.5 hrc rear toe block
3deg and additional 1 deg anti squat shims fitted

4.5HRC, 4 deg anti-squat. It is the slow hairpins that it is suffering, as soon as you give it the beans, back end has a fit!

In that case I'm curious as to why the car is loosing traction on exit at slow speeds. Do you think the rear could have been collapsing causing the car to diff out? If so a yellow spring might help. Either that or try 1d rear link
If that makes it worse try 1c

Is the sudden loss of grip at the point of weight transfer?

For me, it is at the point of car straightening up and me applying power. I should of said, I am running pink springs currently in the rear.

mine was doing the same with this setup,i changed the rear links to the outside on the the tower and the middle rear set of holes on the hub,i only ran 2 deg anti squa,the car was for me was so much easyer to drive and no more looking like i couldnt drive round a slow corner:thumbsup:

Mine is also as DCM said but not quite as bad as his as i have white springs and weight in the car he doesnt :p
We both have that same rear link setup Reg , adding more squat seems to help????

With the pink springs it might not be loading the rear tyres enough. Try yellow or White with 1d camber link as this will give you the roll stiffness that you need but let more weight transfer to rear tyre

Also if you can get a little weight around the motor area.

These are my guesses. Do you think I am on the right lines. It's always hard to try and cure setup issues without being there to see/feel the car!

Food for thought thanks Steve
Will try the setup again with the rear weight kit to see if it helps and also play with the link position - cheers :thumbsup:

I think the key to this is deffo in the link and maybe a little less antisquat. The rear weight kit will cause the rear to be more pendulous and will make the rear flap about as your damping/springing is not hard enough to cope with that massive block of brass behind the axle!!

Try more weight around the motor just infront of and behind the front pivot block. The more I put around this area the better my car feels!
I'm trying to get my car as close to 65/35 weight split as poss but don't want much if anything behind the axle.

I keep thinking about playing around with lr rl wishbones with hub fully rear. Not sure on this though. Bit radical!!

I did try swapping the rear wishbones over, went from 285mm to about 270mm, way to much lol!

I shall try the different rear springs and some lead under the motor and cells.