Has anyone run MR and RS back to back on the same clay base track? What characteristics did you notice between the two?

We are debating building up one buggy RS style and the other MR but that would mean sacrificing one brand new body on the configuration that doesn't end up working.

If your clay track includes tight turns, you'll be able to carry more speed through them with mid motor. If it is a large clay track with low traction, go for rear motor. Choosing between both configurations also depends on your style of driving.
As the outdoor season in our region will only begin in late April, I haven't had a chance to test mid motor on clay, but for my driving style it should work.

Just try it as kit first. You need to understand how the car works and why its setup as is before you can start improving it to your style and track.

Kit springs are fine

took my bmax2 mr out today at yatton very happy with it need a bit more stering whent for longer link on front and no limitters in shocks kit springs and whent from 42.5 losi oil to 32.5 oil in front all helped and 25g at the front getting where i wont it think next time out will take the spacer out from the inside front link
allso think i seen it on here will lowering the stiering hub help ? spacer on top ?

New chassis is coming...
There are new stiffners on the internal edge of the chassis...
And looking the others photos of redrc... The nose is also improved.


http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/1...otoyokomo4.jpg

?? New chassis this just to stiffen it up our are peaple braking them ??

less flexy to take adavantage of the smoother clay tracks

Alloy shock caps too?

I never break and never heard that this chassis can break...perhaps the term of "nose" is not right...the "front" of the chassis got little things for improvement.

As you say, just to stiffen it...
http://events.redrc.net/wp-content/u...toYokomo-2.jpg

Associated Bigbore shocks...

Mmmm....that's not good.

indeed im going to try ae bigbore pistons they are a perfect fit in the yokomo shocks

As you say, just to stiffen it... :D.So is anyone making front end waights for this car yet ? could do with a 35g waight that would fit in the front nose :)

been thinking about using some putty like wheel balance putty with some lead inside ? that stuff seems to stay in place

he had them on the 4wd too!

any one know if the plastic would stand the heat of melted lead ?

Yeah I've ordered some for my 4wd too.

It's not a chassis. It's some form of bronze weight i think, like under-servo weight.

Dont worry guys, im working on getting some weight in the front ;)

The plate goes right back to the speedo, so I'm wondering if it acting as a stiffener as well, bit like the carbon one he had on his B-Max4.

Although the biggest problem with flex is around the battery compartment and a lot of this is relying on the battery clamp taking the flex out. Which is not the perfect answer and where I much prefer the stiffness of my old B-Max2 chassis, but that's RM only:(

Also he has six ally nuts either side of the saddle pack and at the back of the chassis, as though a plate could possibly be bolted below the chassis.

The servo also looks to be mounted further back.

A lot of questions, but he does do a lot of wacky experiments:rolleyes:

Those ally nuts are where the RM battery sidepods bolt on. So maybe he is having them so he can bolt the holes to not let dirt in... maybe...
I wouldn't pay much attention to all this madness though. He is one of a kind driver racing in a one of a kind track with insane amounts of traction.

I don't think the servo is further back. As he's using a full size servo there wouldn't be the room. I think the front bulkhead has been modified to make clearance for the servo horn. There is very little room to put weight under the servo hence the mod.

I think.....:blush:

What bothers me is this little piece of plastic. It isnt there in my car...

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/43397636/wte9md1h.jpg

I wouldn't look for prototype parts on his 2WD, as there are many pictures around. However, there are no chassis shots at all of his 4WD ride; at least the shock towers are very different to what we all are used to... ;)
As for the weight in the front: Saddle pack-sized brass plates are a perfect fit under the Rx/ESC, at least if you use a low profile servo.

His 4wd had a double deck carbon chassis, same as B44.

Ran them in my car last time out and felt much better...particularly at the rear. Yok shocks in general seem high quaility though so why swap completely to AE?

How interesting!

The rib from the bulkhead to battery post has a much more prominent kink than the old one, where the caps are there is no longer a rib and the additional strengthening rib running parallel to saddle tray. Totally new chassis, although the most flex has still got to be between front and rear of battery tray.

Where have you heard that ?...

Next EOS race, Naoto will be there...perhaps we will see something

I'm agree...

Heard it directly from someone who saw the car at Cactus.

I also understand that the use of AE shocks was simply due to lack of testing time with their own shocks on US style tracks.

Makes sense.:)

took my bmax2 mr out at yatton for its first outing and after changing some things im very very happey with it took spacers out from under the iner link front and put losi orange spring on front with losi 32.5 oil no 2 piston and rear losi pink spring and losi 27.5 oil no 3 piston and added 45g up front :thumbsup:

any one run with lipo down the middle ? and wots your thought ?

TQ and a final win at yatton indoor club race for eggs with the bmax2 couldnt be any happier with this car car is so planted it fills like I'm going slow but clearly I'm not :-)

Was that with your lipos down the middle?

No saddle pack normal place not tryed down centre yet

first outing today with the yok in rear config, must say I'am really happy with the car.

We race on a very low traction Clay track and the car is very balanced especially after the added weight behind the battery. Also changed the pistons from front/rear 2/3 to 1/2 that made a big difference also.
Car still needs some work but really impressive for a first race meeting.

Dose Any one have any idea what to change on the kit setup to stop the rear end kicking out on the exits on a dusty astro turf.

using Shumacher Yellow mini spike rear blue insert
Schumacher Yellow narrow cut stagger ribs no insert front

Mid rear Config