......trippy.......

^^ pot calling kettle.......... ^^

Hi guys

Just registered on the forum..AWESOME btw

Im from sunny South Africa and just finished my build of my Durga...awesome

So I went on my first ride, took a jump and broke the front arm where the ball joint screws in the arm. It doesnt look to bad and i just pushed the ball joint back into the now deformed hole and drove the car to the pit area.

Can I just shove some glue/apoxy in the hole and tighten up or should I replace the whole arm? Seems a bit pointless to me...

are you on about where the shock absorber attatches to the wishbone?

Does anyone have a source for the flourine suspension balls in the US?

I had a minor crash and popped out the rear wishbone and the ball shattered, so I figure I'll pick up the cheaper 3Racing suspension mounts and the flourine balls everyone recommends, except that I can't even find them in the US.

Hey guys! Just picked up a DB01 after having a DF03 for quite some time.

The DF03 was the fully hopped "MS" version with all the right aftermarket parts in the right places to make it the best DF03 it could be. Sadly the DF03 chassis is not well supported where I live. After breaking it everytime out, I figured it was time for a change.

I guess I just got used to to the fact that when I need something for my touring cars, I can go down to 1 of 4 hobby shops on the island and get what I need that day.

If I were breaking arms and stuff like that, I would stock up on parts, etc. Changing an arm everytime out isn't a big deal, but when you have to change the chassis or the rear diff cover, it's like buildng a new car every time, as you have to tear it down quite a bit to replace those parts. To me, that's just not fun. Of course any car will break, but minor repars and complete rebuilds are two different things. I'd rather spend my time getting better on the track.

So I went ahead and picked up a DB01 since it's the most supported EP buggy on Okinawa, Japan (with parts regularly stocked). Of course, I couldn't just leave it stock, so I went ahead and picked up all the supporting stuff to make it bulletproof, or at least what I think would make it bullet proof:

58404 DB01 Baldre kit
Champ Ti screw set for DB01
54018 Slipper set
54028 TRF Aeration Buggy Dampers
51286 501X diff halves
54015 Front Univeral Joints
Discou54037 Front Aluminum Suspension Mount
54038 Rear Aluminum Suspension Mount
54039 Aluminum Suspension Block
54051 Center 1 way for DB01
53709 Suspension balls
54062 13, 14, 15 48P pinion set
53124 Tungsten diff balls
51304 Front wheels
51305 Rear wheels
54079 Aluminum Motor Mount

Have a look:

http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/271/db01ol3.jpg


Any tips for the build?

I've been reading a lot on the suspension with the TRF dampers, and I decided to keep the normal shock tower and dog bones in the rear since the TRF dampers are a little longer and fair better with the dog bones.

What I'd like to know specifically though is what would be a good starting point for a rough 1/8th scale buggy track, thats on a very loose, dusty surface with big jumps?

Should I do limiters/no limiters?, What weight shock oil? Which pistions/springs, etc?

Also, is the kit belt tension setting ok for a Mamba Max 5700 combo?

I'd like to be able to handle the rough stuff and make the big jumps without crazy chassis slapping if I can help it. Not sure if that's possible, but if anyone could shed some light on a decent starting point it'd be greatly appreciated.

:)

- Paulie

Good choice!

Can I ask you a favour :blush: ? Could you scan the building instruction of the 54028 TRF Aeration Buggy Dampers?

Thanks

Ask and you shall receive!

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/3111/...uctionswd2.jpg

:)

- Paulie

Use good screws and a good driver. The upper shock screws were the toughest for me.

Also shave/grind the chassis "webbing/shelf" at the rear. Otherwise the front edge of the rear arms will hit, and you won't get full travel.

Haven't been running much 4WD... 1/10 4WD here has kind of made way for 1/8 electric.

I have not done that to my car as yet, and it doesn't suffer any ill effects from not doing it.

what is the proper way to fill oil into these aeration shocks?

well, I fill mine as they describe, put the top on, push the piston in, if it pressurises too much, I crack the cap open a little, let a little oil out until the piston goes fully in, and extends on it's own a little, then make both shocks the same.

I beleive the car is build in long wheelbase in the manual - and there's no interference with the chassis. It's only if you go for short on the inner hingepin that the suspension arm will hit the chassis during travel.

I just used a sanding drum on a dremel to put a little radius where the arm was hitting.

Thanks Paulie :D

Durga parts
 

Does anybody know if there is a problem in the UK with Durga parts. I ordered an "A" spru to repair mine in December from DMS racing but they are having problems getting parts from Tamiya. Sorry if this is not the place to post this.

My DB01 Durga is for sale (in the forsale section, of course) if anyones interested. I raced it for the last time yesterday and did really well with it (apart from missing my final because I was chatting, oops), but other cars and other reviews need my time/money, so it's got to go :(

you could get the Carbon parts then?? fusion hobbies got them (I think)

Im wondering, can DF02 shocks be used for the DB01? My kit shock in the front are broken at the mount :mad: thx to my driving skill of clipping the fence. At my place i could only find DF02 shocks, TRF dampers are still 'on the way' it seems, it might take ages so hoping for a replacement while i wait for new ones.

if it isn't important that youneed to use Tamiya shocks, then you could always use Associated B4 shocks.

I do want TRF shocks for my DB01, ive ordered them but it seems it'll take sometime to arrive, even TA B44 shocks are not available n ill have to order them . . . but i found a cheap set of df02 shocks hoping it could be used as replacement for the moment.