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Team Losi Racing
(http://www.oople.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=17)
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I noticed some peeps are running 5 hole pistons up front with 6 hole at the back. Is there any reason for this as most seem to run 6 hole front and back.
My current rear is 6x 55 hole with 27.5 oil and feels good. I was thinking of trying 5x 56 up front, probably with the same oil. I'm looking for a base setup that will work both outdoors on astro/grass and indoors on carpet/polish. Ta |
Busy Building my 22.
fist kit in about 15 years as i'm just getting back to racing. on the turnbuckles atm and my poor fingers are killing. definately thinking i need to invest in hex drivers rather than allen keys :P |
When the suspension is at full droop and I try to apply full steering lock, the inside spindle (the one on the same side as the steering direction) touches the wishbone where the ball stud threads into it, preventing the spindle from reaching full lock.
I tried to build the car as close as possible to the Dustin Evans setup using only the parts that came with the kit, with one change; my setups usually have a lot of droop, so I built the shocks with no limiters (and planned to try the inside shock mounting holes later). Did anyone else experience spindles fouling the on wishbone? On a somewhat related subject, did anyone try the 0 degrees caster blocks? I bought them as a tuning option but it looks like they will also create some space between the spindle and the wishbone. Avner. |
Yeah - my spindles rubbed on the wishbone at full droop but I taught the wishbones a lesson with my dremel:woot:
Just a small lesson mind you - it wasn't that bad... 0 deg blocks - no not tried but I'm loving the 5 deg blocks with 25 deg kickup |
i ran the 5deg today and it smothed out the corner,mine was getting halfway round the corner then it would turn suddenly with the same amount of lock,the 5deg stopped that:thumbsup:
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It's good to know that I'm not the only one...
BTW - to run the 0 degrees blocks (with 30 degrees kickup) no kickup shim should be used, right? |
I don't think you can achieve 30 degree front kick angle. The chassis is bent at 25 degree so you would need a shim with a reverse taper to achieve more.
Not quite sure what the set up sheet is suggesting :confused::confused: @Reg - exactly what I found when I swapped to the 5 degree blocks - much smoother corner exit transition. Still got stuff I want to try but the 5 degree blocks are (for me anyway) a real positive. |
I just assumed that the chassis has 30 deg kickup and that the 25 deg shim has 5 degree taper, I didn't notice it had no taper at all.
So I guess the 0 deg block are only for running 25 deg total caster. Maybe it's possible to get 30 deg kickup by using the 25 deg shim with a few washer in the back (similar to the XXX anti squat), I'll check it out next time I take the front apart. did you deremel the wishbone when you were running the 5 deg blocks or the 10 deg blocks? Avner. |
TBH I'm not 100% sure on the kick up but my understanding is that the 25 deg shim is flat - so I'm assuming the bend iteself is 25 degrees on the chassis but it wouldn't be the first time an assumption has bitten me on the back side so it might be worth a double check to make sure.
As for the wishbone dremelling - it was with the 10 deg blocks. |
You were right, I checked the 25 deg shim and it is flat.
I'm pretty sure that the 5 deg blocks will give more clearance so that I'll not have to dremel anything, I just have to wait for the to become available again. I was going to get them anyway since it seems most people have good experiences with them. Thanks for the input, Avner. |
Ran my 22 at the batley regional with setup based on Steveproracing's setup.
The main thing I feel helped was almost 100g of weight under the small losi lipo. 50g over the rear too. HRC 4.0 block 3 degree squat White rear springs 54 piston, 25 oil Green front springs 55 piston, 20 oil I know some people were struggling with their 22's and many I watched looked twitchy. Mine felt really good and I'll be basing any future changes around this setup. |
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I weighted mine up for the first time yesterday, I already had 20g on the rear bumper and about 40g around the stubby LiPo. I added 84g under the LiPo, it made it feel more planted and easier to attack the corners. I might try more as it's still less than the team setups. I also found the 3 degrees anti-squat helped with low speed traction on the slippy sections. Another thing I tried later in the day was the short wheel base. I thought it might give more rear traction, I didn't notice more traction so much, but it did make the car more nimble in all the switch backs in yesterdays track, with no noticeable loss of stability. |
Longer front link vs more washers under the inside front link.
I've been running the shorter front link, as per the kit, I've noticed a lot of people running the longer front link. I've found more washers under the inside of the front link gives more steering in the corner and settled on 1mm at the moment. What sort of feel does running the longer front link give vs adding/removing washers on the inside? |
Hi Ian
Yes, losi oil. I considered changing the wheelbase too... but didn't get around to trying it !! I too am interested in the long versus sort front link characteristics. I do though think that the main setup aid, that has not being discussed that much in this thread is WEIGHT ! I bought some 1.5mm brass plate and cut a piece to sit exactly along the chassis / battery area. It's around 92g so as the losi lipo is around 30g lighter I'm running an extra 62g under the cells in real terms, then the 50g on the rear too. Loving the car though, if I'd had a clear run, or 2 yesterday I would have put it in the A, as it was my heat was tricky with lots of 'Jam' cars I had to lap a number of times that only needed to catch me out once, then it destroyed that run, still put it in the B though :) |
I entered a 4wd event so ment my car needed to weigh 1588g,most people iv seen always run the brass weight on the back,i made a lead plate to go under the lipo,i put the car on the scales and it was over 1700g:woot:,i took it for a run and it was awfull,i took the 50g brass off,i weighed the lead plate and it was 128g,i trimmed it to get it as close as possible to the legal weight,i ended up with about 60g of lead to do this,it was so much easyer to drive,over 2 seconds a lap quicker:thumbsup:i could just drive round and it was quicker,if i wanted to push it i could,
i can now order a nice bit of brass:wub |
The Front hubs do rub on the wishbones on full droop but i believe in the manual it says to put a spaces in the shocks i forgot to do this so mine catch and i am still yet to try it with a spacer to see if this resolves the problem. Has anyone built it with the spacer??
Ash |
I ran mine yesterday and by the final i was mega happy with it.
I changed to running 25' Kick up with 5' Caster block and it felt lovely. Also, ran no weight on the rear and it was super smooth. I tried one race with 50g at the rear and it was all over that place, so edgy and bouncy. Ran No anti-squat and long wheel base. 3.5' HRC Block Just weighed it.. 1548g ready to go. So by most peoples reckoning, very light, but it was so nice. Still some things i want to try, but for now, that's a lovely setup for bumpy, grippy conditions. :thumbsup: |
I have a carpet setup to share:
Front 55 x 4 piston, 25 AE oil, orange spring, 3mm limiters Inside hole on tower, middle on arm 25 degree kickup, 5 degree caster block 1-A camber link w/ 3mm on camber block, 0 on caster block -1.5 camber 0 toe in/out 23 mm ride height Rear 55 x 4 piston, 22.5 AE oil, yellow spring, no limiters #2 on tower, inside on arm 2.5 degree antisquat 2-C link (2mm on bulkhead, 1mm on hub) -1 camber 3.5 HRC block 23 mm ride height 28 grams of weight on transmission. Schumacher mini pins/med. foam in rear, stagger ribs no foam in front. Losi 96mm lipo Tekin RS w/ Duo2 13.5 Savox 1258 Car was very stable but had good amount of steering in and out of the corner. It may be over rotating a bit out of the corner but I turned the most consistent and fast lap times of the night with this setup. I will be trying additional weight under the lipo this week. |
Anti roll bar?
Have noticed some 22's have rear roll bars.As there is no option part for the 22 yet are people using the one of the xx4,if so can this fit straight on or is modification needed. Also if anyone has tested this could you give feedback as to wether it is worthwhile. |
We're using the XXX4 Anti Roll Bar kit and re-bending the roll bar slightly and using the rear top gearbox screws as the clamp locations. Not necessarily ideal but you can feel the effect of the roll bar so it is certainly doing something.
Personally, I'm not convinced on it yet. I used to run one almost always in the summer on the CR2 or my X6 but so far, I've not yet completed a full race day with the roll bar on. I does make the car corner flatter and some may find that it enables you to go into a corner harder without it wanting to GTI the rear inside wheel but I'm (currently) faster without one. Its not tricky to do and it is easy to whip a link on or off during a practice run so as with any adjustment, its worth trying yourself to feel the effect and take it from there. |
What gauge bar are you using fella ?
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The thinnest one in the XXX4 pack.
Sorry but I can't be more specific as I don't have the car with me. Reckon around 18-20SWG though. I used to run a 0.9mm or a 1.2mm on the CR2 - I'd say it's closer to 1.2mm (18SWG) but I couldn't be sure (sorry:blush:) |
I used sum schumacher bits to make my 22 rear rol bar - cougar sv rear bar cut down fits a treet.... ive found the car stays a bit flatter entering the corner with it on....... hears a pic ...cheers lee
http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/CIMG2408.jpg |
Interesting that roll bars are being tested.
So far the biggest improvement I've made to the rear end feel for bumps, stability and cornering is to take the 50g weight off. The roll bar would almost be counteracting the weight... Traction can be found elsewhere if you get the set-up right. |
1 Attachment(s)
my setup from moto arena on tuesday night, should anyone want one, still going to try things on car, this is only the first time i have run it properly will update with changed as and when
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Paul - cannot quite make out some of your writing here, is that a 8.5t motor?
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Haha I do have scribbly writing, motor is a 5.5t........power :woot:
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Hi all,
I'm looking for a base setup for an outdoor slippy rough earth track, but for mid motor. I don't feel like rebuilding rear motor to use Dustin's setup. Anyone has that? Cheers |
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Has anyone changed there car to the rear motor set up, And what effects has it given you, |
Yep :) just testet mine on astroturf, pretty sweet handling with the stock setup though. only thing i changed was the front spring to green and 25 WT oil in the rear pluss the four hole 57 pistons. -1 camber in the front.... the car felt solid :) ran shumacher minispike yellow front and rear,cut outer row on front. arms level. car felt solid and locked in.
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Hello boys;-)
Are there any of you who have tested Inline spindle? |
quick one - on the drive shafts do the black or silver pins hold the wheel hex's....? i think it's the silver one's.
Also any tips for getting the ball-cups onto the turnbuckles - they are really tight??? Thanks!!! :) |
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As for the Turnbuckles, best thing I did was to use a reamer to start off the hole (in the ball cup end) then I'm afraid it's just blood, sweat and tears all the way. Sorry I can't offer any better tips, maybe someone else will though. |
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Thanks folks...!
Other than those (very) small niggles the build is awesome. Some of the best shocks I have ever built and a good instruction manual. Nice one TLR. :) |
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Thanks wrightcs77. I'll give it a try :)
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Build the car exactly as you would for three degrees antisquat. Then in the hrc shim kit there is a really thin shim (a little under a mm thick). Add this shim under the shim for 3deg squat. So instead of having 1 shim under the front block you now have 2 shims. Thus raising the front block to beyond 3degrees
To approx 4 degrees The insert inside the block is still the hrc 3 deg block But this insert has no effect on the antisquat it just keeps the gearbox level. Therefore it can cope with being a tiny bit off level from the extra shim. 4degrees of antisquat give much more forward drive. I was really impressed how much extra it gave me. That combined with short wheelbase and the hrc 4.5 block helped give me a really locked in rear end. Much more than putting the rear weight kit on. All that did was make the rear of the car into a pendulum. Hope this helps |
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