lol yeh its called a yokomo.

i checked with cml on the use of shims as the chassis was bent at the rear. They confirmed it is as i have said above.

if you measure the size of the bit that sits in the chassis hole it is 3mm. Therefore if you run less than a total of 3mm you end up with a gap between the blocks and box mounts. This causes the chassis to bend round the box bottom when screwed down.

its not what works, its how its designed to be used.

its the same as the 22 system, works exactly the same way keeping the box level and also at the same height.

if u really don't beleive me try this.....

remove the front block and all shims, then sit the box in position on the chassis. The gap between the box mount and rear block will be 3mm.

what's gonna happen if you bolt the box down? The chassis is going to bend around the box bottom as it gets pulled into that 3mm gap. This has the effect of raising the rear block and reducing the antisquat.

so that gap must be filled with a 3mm at all times.

the same goes for the front block but because you are raising this, you adjust the shim size on top to fill the gap.

I can see what you mean Steve and I can see the chassis deformation you mention.

So your theory is that whatever the thickness of the rear shim (0) the total thickness of the front shims, above and below the block should be the same?

I can see that and it makes sense as the gearbox will then remain at the same height.

I'll give it a go.

yes mate. Basically always use the '0' 3mm shim on rear block. Then your front shims should total 3mm too

Car Setup
 

Morning all.

I have recently bought a H2 pro.
I have built it per the instructions in the mid motor config.
Took it out for its first run last friday at my local club, and the car ran well (and so did I for the first time out with an rc car for over 10 years)

I was running indoor on carpet at Ribble Valley in Leyland and had Schumacher Yellow Mini pins all round.

I did however have a problem with the car cocking a wheel when turning.
I lowered the car as low as it would go using the different shock mounting positions on the towers and wishbones, but was still having the same problem but to a lesser extent.

Just looking for some advice on setup to try and get rid of this problem.
Im guessing shock oil and springs will be on the agenda.

Cheers
Chris.....

h2 bleeding shocks
 

having fun bleeding my shock and getting consistent rebound, I prefer to run as little as possible.

any suggestions

We have been going to ribble valley for 3 weeks now... my son races a durango 210 and I'm looking to get myself a car to race too. H2 pro are now £99 so very interested. Do you still have your h2 and do you still got to ribble valley? Wouldn't mind a nosey if that's ok?

Hey guys, I've just bought a H2 Pro Kit, any tips before I go about setting it up?

my new H2 Pro :thumbsup:

/\ looks good! Is that a losi 22 shell? For a second I thought you had mounted a lit candle on the wing!! (Extra Xmas points) lol:woot:

that´s the new hobao h2pro body... in germany come all new kits with this body in the box ;-)

much better than the old one!!!

here is a new professional picture without candle on the wing ;-)

Where do you get those bodies from? Anywhere that ships internationally? I dislike the stock H2 shell, looks top heavy.

Loads better than the original. Have you got a part number for the new shell? I cannot find one to bu anywhere?

As Hobao seems to have gone very quiet these days i thought i would give the brand a kick start,here is my latest version Cobra Racing H2,i now run the car in 3 gear mid layout and the transformation in all conditions has been great with so much more grip and rear drive in low conditions and feeling more to the pace of forward motor cars in high grip

That's confused me! I thought 3 gear mid would give less rear drive than 4 gear mid?

That's got me too. I can see it being better with on power steering but I would of expected less out of the corner traction with 3 gears. I suppose running saddles towards the back helps loads though. either way it's a great car for the money.

Confused me also but the car is so much better all round in 3 gear,i also run a gear diff which again is supposed to be the wrong thing to do,no saddles either just a shorty to move the weight as the track changes.

It's been strange but everyone who has driven my car has said how much better it is with 3 gear and personally now i wouldn't go back to running a 4 gear transmission,another occasion of rather than believing what everyone thinks try it yourself as it might just work for you

How odd. I've been running the 3 gear option in my B5M indoors for a while and didn't really notice the difference to be honest. Was intending to race at Frankley today and had converted back to 4 gear for it. I'll certainly be interested to see how it goes outdoors in 3 gear.

I'm surprised you didn't notice any difference as all I know that have made the change felt it almost instantly,I planned to do frankley also but plans had to change,we had a guy go yesterday with a 3 gear cobra who only finished building the car at lunchtime yesterday,the car had never turned a wheel till his first race,he rang me last night and his first word was thankyou, he said between the chassis and changing to the 3 gear version it was the best the car had ever felt in low grip and his report echoed all I had found with the car,by the final he was matching lap times of the tq man,not bad considering it was the first time he had driven the car and had no setup time.

Personally I think 3 gear is the way to go in low grip and in high grip I think its also better unless you have forward motor which will be my choice,but a cobra/hobao forward motor is for another thread 😁